I just had a buddy call me with a seemingly good buy on a Hipo--$20. No globe, but he says all the other parts appear to be intact(holds pressure too). Was there a link or something to any spare parts for these? I don't know model or date yet , as he hasn't brought it over. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Gary
Check tank ,if it looks clean rinse it with water anyways to get any sediment out..if its bad rinse with acetone and then with water till it comes out clear.pump valves can be tight until you use them again than they can leak.did you do a dunk tank check or let it sit for a few hours to see if it leaks.I clean them out good than run air thru to see if rapid starter is clear and take jet off and turn on and off under pressure to blow out any small bits in vapourizer.usually foot valve dries out if it sat a long time.the seal on rapid start rocker can be a problem with messy outcome if it leaks.make sure ceramic and jet are tight and distance between jet and j tube is correct.I've done a few of these if you have any questions.no expert by any means but have some hands on experience..have fun.lundo
Britelyt has had a bad wrap but last time I ordered parts they came right away and they gave me a free mantle! Stuga cabana is a good place and have a rebuild kit available..the store has some really cool stuff! Britelyt is in the states...stuga cabana in Germany.
Tank was filthy. Filled with SuperClean and ~ 50 BBs-shake-shake-shake. Horrible gunk came out after two days of this. Rinsed and started again. Tomorrow will dump and see if the stuff is any cleaner. If so, next is POR 15 Marine clean to get out the last oily mess. Then Metal Prep, and then the Tank sealer. The metal parts are currently soaking in Berryman's Carb Dip.(all the tank pickups, plus the generator) Generator rod and pricker looked amazingly clean-(what the inside is like is a big guess) Do you know what is inside the circular generator tube?
Quite right @Lundo007 ! Remove the gunk which should let you see the condition of the tank metal from the inside. Then think. If you have deep pitting and/or leaking pin holes your choice is to solder over it or to carpet bomb it with a sealant such as POR15. On a kero lamp I would rather solder up pinholes. Once POR15 is in and set there is no retreat. I have one of these and while it was tricky to get going I had no tank issues thankfully. The preheater needed some work, I got used to lighting it by the spirit cup. Now I can do it either way. With the fine weave Petromax mantle (I forget the designation - or an equivalent) it produces an amazing amount of light but do be warned, they are not quiet. I love them. (Another Jon by the way!!)
I agree with Jond..tank sealant last resort. You should learn how to light it both ways....it seems many prefer the soft start with spirit (meth) cup.The smallest orifice is in the rapid start they clog easy.yes..they are lovely monsters!
Did you get her fired up yet? Mothers mag polish works really well with brass wool to shine her up after you soak it in citric acid and water for a while first to detail it!
Didn't have the Mothers around so I used Nevr-Dull Wading. Seemed to work ok. There are only a few spots the plating had separated- Did not need to do the POR 15 on the tank yet, as it looked really clean after the soak and bbs. Most back together, but will need to source a pricker tip, as the original is mia. I think Bryte-lyt (or some similar name) was given by another member as a parts reference--hopefully I can add pics in a day or so when I can get free from the new floor install -
Just ordered the parts I think I need from Bryte-lyt(sp?) they are in Clearwater, Fl. so very close to me. Needed the upper vaporizer needle, tank heat shield, and globe. hopefully, in the next few days we will see a bright light from Alva!!
Ok, here is the stupid question: what is the tank heat shield ? Assuming your lantern is complete and the globe cage is bolted on the tank.
So the "useless" part ? It's a 500cp kerosene lantern. Nothing will happen with the mantle off and the lantern running. Besides this, nobody runs his/her lanterns unattended. So when the mantle beaks you are in the neighbourhood and shut down the lantern.
So a gaurd is a waste of time and money in your opinion ?work lanterns cannot be monitored 100% of the time ....they didn't constantly watch them waiting for a mantle to break...did they?now a hobby lamp fired for demonstration or for an evening is a different story.i have had mantles blow out with a blow torch effect upon lighting and glad a gaurd was on.
Nope they didn't, so there is no danger. Working lanterns provide light to work with so any change in light output will be noticed. Operated at the normal 2bar, the flame front will be of the same size as the mantle shape. Besides this the globe cage is attached with a mounting plate which also will prevent overheating. Then you have the 5cm or so height before any flame will desolder the locking nut.
In 1960 Graetz KG did invent the plate for extra heat protection. Here is the patent DE1256175B But this doesn't mean you need it ! All lanterns, as far as I know, where sold without it. Even today. But you can buy it like the magical stainless steel nozzle but do you need it ? There is a company in the USA that states these are multi fuel lanterns. In that case buy two shields and use them. I am pretty sure it has a relation with lanterns that where used on gasoline for some time (Bundeswehr). Gasoline reacts to heat more violent then kerosene. Even more when the tank is half full. Also the special version of the 250cp lanterns for the swiss army have these plates. But they used gasoline and put a smaller less high globe cage on a big (500cp) tank. I wrote: normal operation with kerosene. Lighting any lantern and don't look after it is not good operation in my opinion. Even a wick lamp can have a "run away" and smoke your ceiling. ps Petro max didn't exist nor petromax. It was Graetz or Ehrich&Graetz.
When I say petromax I use it as a generic term for communication purposes.petromax is like Kleenex. Technically ,I understand your point.My Alladin wick lamps indeed need to be watched...even a kosmo brenner.And I'm familiar with the USA company that had a lawsuit with Mack..(.not a big fan) but it's the only game we have in town in the US for Ehrich and Graetz parts that I am aware of.
I know and understand. But on the other hand there are differences as for companies and times this style of lantern was made. Parts would not be a big issue, as long as they fit.
