Optimus 300 help needed

I picked up a pretty sound Optimus 300, but it does not have a cap for the hood.

I am assuming that this model had the cap with two fixing bolts. Can someone demonstrate or explain how the cap is fitted; and where I may be able to find a used one?

Also the nipple (nozzle/jet) is stamped 3. What does this indicate?






Thanks in advance for you help.

Best regards

Tony

 

Can you show a picture of the rest of the lantern? That will determine what variation it is. Also a picture of the inner top.

The 3 on the jet is the old Optimus way of marking it as 300cp.

 

Nils

It's getting dark outside now. I'll take photos tomorrow.

Cheers

Tony

 

Nils

Actually there was enough light to get the following photos with a flash.











Does that help?

Cheers

Tony

 

Thanks for the photos. You have the first version after they switched the marking on the tank to this position. This version should look like one in the gallery. As usual Optimus used up parts that were on the shelf so yours has the globe cage from the previous version and I think the control wheel (not really clear). Anyway, it should have a nickel plated top hat with a single screw. From memory it is a 5/16W cheese head screw, but don't quote me on that. From what I can work out, this version is from the mid to late 1940s. As yours has earlier parts it is probably from the early part of this time frame.

 

Thanks, Nils.

Two more questions:

Does the cap screw on directly to the centre of what I have shown in the photos, or is there an intermediary piece of metal? And,

What is a "cheese head" screw? I've no heard that term.

The control wheel is a dark burgundy with a little metal "arrow".

I thought that the lantern you showed on your link was closest to mine, but my control wheel looks like Bakelite and I was wondering why my hood below the cap had two hole (and the centre stamp out, when the cap needed only one screw.

Cheers

Tony

 

Don't worry about "cheesehead screw" - I've got it!

Cheers

Tony

 

Your top is correct with the three holes. The centre hole was always there even though the first lanterns only used the two outer holes. Yours went over to only one screw but retained the same hole pattern. The screw screws into a steel disc that fits the recess and has a threaded hole in the middle.

The control wheel is from the same variation as the globe cage (there are no 300s of this variation in the gallery but it is similar to Optimus 200 ).

 

Just remembered it's a 5/32 screw, not 5/16. So use a 4mm one and no one will know the difference.

 

Thanks, Nils.

1. Does anyone have a photo of the 'steel disc' that Nils refers to above?

2. Is that 'steel disc' similar to part 151 in this catalogue?:

http://classicpressurelamps.com/index.php?threads/214

I assume that if I can't get hold of the 'steel disc' I can get away with affixing the cap with a combination of bolts, nuts and washers.

Cheers

Tony

 

I was at work when I replied yesterday so no access to my lamps. I have now taken a picture that I hope helps. It wasn't the nicest example I grabbed, but you get the idea. This one actually has the screw replaced with a new 4mm one. The hole in the disc always looks like they have used a punch to make the hole and then tapped it. This way you get a bit more thread. This disc is 34.6mm in diameter and 1mm thick. A large washer with a machine screw and nut would work just as well.

 

!

Thanks,Nils.

Cheers

Tony

 

Tony - I have some nickel plated 5/32 screws that you are welcome to if you need them. Cheers Peter

 

Hi there, i am also restoring a similar lamp (Radius 103)
I noticed that you can buy replacement hood caps on swedish Fogas.

YTTERTAK RÖD EMALJERAT 2HÅL


I do not know if they are original or if the even fit the Optimus300/Radius 103 but they have booth 1hole and 2hole red enamel hood caps.
According to the product description the 2hole hood cap is for Optimus 127 and the 1hole fit Optimus 116.

 

Part number 127 with two holes is for the Optimus 200P and part number 116 with a single hole is for the last version of the Optimus 1350/1550. As far as I'm aware, they don't have tops to fit the Optimus 300 at Fogas. I could be wrong though.

 

Thanks to a very helpful CPL member, I now have the hood cap for this lantern and have started to fettle it:












I'm looking forward to getting this up and running.

Cheers

Tony

 

Very nice lantern Tony!

Will be good to see the completed restoration

Jaco

 

Very interesting discussion, Tony and Nils. I look forward to seeing the lamp working!

 

Can someone please tell me the size of the jet for the Optimus 300?

The one I have with this lantern has "3" stamped on it. I'm assuming that's 300CP but I don't really know. The pricker wire on the cleaning needle is 0.19mm diameter.

Given all the discussion here at CPL about Optimus lanterns suffering "Black Mantle Disease", I've decided to give the whole thing a thorough cleaning. Today it was the Preston loop.


Cheers

Tony

 

@Tony Press

My records have 0.2mm which is inline with your 0.19mm cleaning needle.

100cp, 0.12mm, 0.0047"
200cp, 0.17mm, 0.0067"
300cp, 0.20mm, 0.0079"
400cp, 0.23mm, 0.0092"
500cp, 0.25mm, 0.0099"

Also

Your getting there
Martin

 

@ROBBO55

Woops! Slow learner (I knew I'd seen that comment somewhere before ).

I was a bit thrown by the diameter jet compared to other jets I had lying around.

Cheers

Tony

 

I suspect the black mantles are at least in part due to clogged Preston loops. It is therefore probably well worth the trouble to run a wire through the coil. ::Neil::

 

@Mackburner

I read your comment about the Preston loop in another thread here at CPL, so yesterday I did exactly that. I managed to get the wire all the way around the loop but not out the final exit into the upright. It appeared to be catching (on some brazing?). But the loop appears to be clean.

I will try again today with a wire that has a small round loop on the end and see if I can get it to exit the bottom of the Preston loop - I hope it isn't brazed shut!

Cheers

Tony

 

Hi Tony
Drop a ball bearing big enough to not fall through the restriction in the generator and blow into it to see if the loop is clear.
Andrew

 

@Andrew T

I managed a variation of your ball bearing test: I was able to roll a ball bearing all the way through the preston loop. Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm now satisfied the preston loop is clean as a whistle!


Cheers

Tony

 

I thought today that I had met my match and @David Shouksmith's comments about Optimus "black mantle disease" had come back to haunt me...

First lighting of the fettled Optimus 300:




A good long prime; a few pumps and....


Flames outside the mantle and flaring and farting all over the place.


The end result being a flaccid black mantle.




So then I took out the cleaning needle and put a nipple/200CP jet on.... much hissing and gurgling and a lot of kerosene burning in the hood...


Next I went back and replaced the 200CP jet with the original 300CP jet after making sure it was not enlarged.

This time, no needle but the 300CP jet and a very long prime (two spirit bowls):



Black mantle disease evident, but looking better, so I upped the pressure gradually and watched the black on the mantle.






When I thought it safe to leave the lantern unattended, I went and fed the chooks, and came back to this 15 mins later:



The black mantle disease clearly in remission and the lantern burning like the sun.






My faith in Optimus is restored (at least until it cools down and I put the needle back in and see what happens).

Stay tuned.

Cheers

Tony

 

I put the needle back in the pricker rod, and relit the lantern.


This time everything went very well.




No more black mantle disease.



This is the mantle I'm using on this lantern:




I think the trick with this lantern is to make sure it is really well primed and the vapouriser and burner are very hot before pumping any kerosene. I also pump only enough to get it to glow white and let it burn for a minute more before increasing the pressure to full running pressure. I noticed that it will backburn if pumped too quickly at start up.


In order to ensure a good long prime I placed some carbon felt in the spirit cup:

I punched a hole; and trimmed the felt to the correct shape.






I'm happy now!

Cheers

Tony

 

@Tony Press

Congratulations Tony, .

 

Thanks, Martin.

I've had it going since it got too dark in the shed to see (the sun sets very early here at the moment), and its now out on the verandah after I took it to lock up the chooks and generally close down for the night. I'm cooking outside this evening so the lantern will do the honours.





Cheers

Tony

@ROBBO55

 

Hi Tony
My Optimus 300 was blocked up solid when I got it which had split the loop.I cleaned it out good and proper while repairing the bad brazing patch. It did not suffer black mantle disease when clogged and the light output didn't change as far as I could tell after cleaning it (it gives good light).