Hello, I assume that someone recognises this lamp . What is its brand, country, year? Never seen such a lamp in the Netherlands. Thanks for all information.
It's a BLESK. made by Pawel Ritter. ul Cieszynska 1. 24, Bielsko Śląsk, Poland. Nice rare thing. ::Neil::
Thank you Neil.... A Quick search on the internet does not reveal more information, but I should spend more time on it. Or/and buy your catalog, is this possible? By the look of the tank I suppose 1910-1930. What do you think?
@Gerard I've never seen one of these, but looking at your photos, it has a hole in the base plate to put a match through... Tony
...and set light to what? Is this kero or gasoline fuelled? If it's the latter then maybe the vapouriser/generator just needs a quick preheat and a long match will suffice. Otherwise some sort of lighting torch will be needed. Still, 'spect Neil will know...
In this case no I don't know. The only paper I have is written in Polish. Maybe someone can translate it but I can't. However the lantern has a presure release in the filler so I would assme kero. Piotr who owns the original of the catalogue thinks maybe around 1930 or a tad earlier which I agree with. The catalogue has Hasag 61 lamps and they are 20s I think. Anyway here is the Blesk page. ::Neil::
We can also see the preheating torch in that picture. It's similar to the the ones used by e.g. Lilor. The U-shaped wick is seen inside the glass, and the wire handle is seen outside with the end loop resting against the tank. It's a small torch, so it could just as well be the kind you would have to use even if the lantern is a petrol fuelled one. But it's nice to see what it should look like.
I think it is nuclear fuelled and therefore too dangerous to use. I am an authorised nuclear lamp disposal person. Please send me a private message so I can give you my address. If you act reasonably quickly, say within the next 48 hours, and send the lamp to me by express post, I'll look the other way (cough) and I won't report you to the relevant authorities.
Matty, its too late already, I am seriously contaminated. All: I wonder about the use of parafin. Does the vaporiser get and stay hot enough? Lilor used that kind of torch on petrol lamps. But I wil give him new seals and a dunk test and than try with parafin first.
Basically the usual advertising blurb. " This new 200 candlepower lantern differs from other brands of lantern . . . . . lights up the whole place so there is no . . . (?). Unaffected by the weather: rain storm or cold. Made from first class brass, nickle plated, light to regulate (?), automatic orifice cleaning. Lantern is suitable for hanging or standing. Price complete - Zl100."
I didn't have you down as a Polish-speaker, Henry - you're obviously a man of many talents! I wondered what was going on there. I vaguely assumed it was something to do with an external pump although, clearly, there's an on-board one on the other side of the tank so maybe a later replacement or modification. However the illustration shows it's correct. Thus you'd need a spanner to release pressure which seems a bit odd, especially if you had to do it in an emergency
It's just a pressure release, see the picture. It opens easily by hand. A knurled one could get stuck, than I would prefer this one.
Yes - but how much torque something needs to be unscrewed surely depends on how much torque has been used to screw it in previously. Having flats for a spanner will lead folk into using one to screw it in and thus over-tightening it. If something is intended to be hand-tight only then knurling is the logical engineering solution - as in Tilley and Bialaddin/Vapalux (and probably other makes as well)...
David, Nie mówię po polsku, ale wiem jak używać translatora Bing. However, Bing Translator is not perfect. The following is what I actually got: "This new product of torchlight on 200 candles differs from other species of torchlight for, that there are no rim, would compel all men zaslanialy the light so that the light falls brightly by *indehiscent glass the whole place, so there is nothing zasloniete. This lantern is not completely dependent on changes atmospheric: rain, storm or cold. Stock out first class brass, nickeled, light to regulate, automatic cleaning dyzy. Lantern is suitable as hanging or standing lamp. The price of the complete lamp is Zl 100. *Indehiscent: (of fruits etc.) not dehiscent; not opening to release seeds, etc. Dehisce (verb), of fruits, anthers, etc. - to burst open spontaneously, releasing seeds, pollen, etc. Henry.
I'm an ex-botanist by trade so I'm familiar with dehiscent and indehiscent fruits. In the context of lamp globes, indehiscent can be taken to mean something like shatterproof or more specifically 'heatproof' or 'heat resistant'. That would be my best crack at it anyway...
@David Shouksmith Once a botanist, always a botanist... I too thought it could have referred to shattering (under heat). Cheers Tony
I took part of the lamp apart. The valve seems to be in good condition; the pricker works. But I doubt if the burner is complete.... Should there be a piece of mesh of some kind here?
...I guess so. That groove inside the outer part should be there to hold it in place. If you leave it like that it will sound roaring like a Milspec, if it ever lights!
First attempt to fix this lamp. An hole was punctured in the bottom op the tank, from the insideNeeded soldering. I made a hole in a coin to fit the bubble. the needle etc needed cleaning pump parts from a Primus stove Than I put him under pressure.... in a bucket of water.... ....stress cracks one to be seen (in that rim), others only visible under water. Some soldering was needed. Than that burner needed a mesh.... Time to light it... Preheating went well And it burned, but did not light . To much fual... But, well, its still is a nice old guy Now that awfull reflector....... Winter job...
Yes, most likely that little hole is too large. Whatever I tried, I could not get a proper blue flame. Unless I blew in a bit of extra air into the air inlet. That jet is not replaceble for nothing.
G'day Gerard, nice work on this restoration. You could try peening the top of the nipple to reduce the size of the hole. Don't try to do it in one hit though. light taps and check the progress regularly with a cleaning needle. OR You could try sleeving the jet hole with a hypodermic needle as shown on this post on CCS. This method is still very experimental on appliances with built in cleaning needles. It might leave a lip the cleaning needle can get caught on. No-silbrazing downsizing of worn jet
The simplest first trick is to lap the top of the nipple. Just flat it off on an oil stone until the metal is clean. This trick just grinds off the end of the hole and re shapes it. You can't take off much as it is pretty thin there so just enough to clean the top. Sometimes the shape of the hole is more important than the size. Worked for me a few times and is less drastic. ::Neil::
