Hi all, I have found a pin hole leak at the top of my AL620's tank (at the end of the black line) on the dunk test, i haven't soldered before so my question is will i be able to fill the hole, grind it flush (in case i decide to spray it later) and expect it to still seal or would i be better to use POR15 tank sealer or similar and for the experienced POR15 users can i just buy an 8oz tin without anything else and hope it seals it, i have flushed with paraffin until the fuel ran clear, Thanks.
@MG Don't use POR 15 without going through the whole process (that means buying the kit). Shortcuts will end in tears. I would clean it up and solder it if there's only one hole. I would also clean the tank and treat it with rust converter (inside). If you find more holes after cleaning the tank, use a POR 15 kit. Cheers Tony
Thanks Tony appreciate the advice, i might have to buy a smaller blowtorch or at least try mine on a scrap tank first, Can you recommend a liquid rust converter that i could use please and would acetone be good enough to clean the tank out (although i haven't looked into what precautions are needed for use yet) Thanks.
They're probably all much of a muchness but choose one that contains phosphoric acid. This converts the rust into hard black iron phosphate which is a good substrate for primer and paint etc, maybe even POR 15. I doubt acetone would do much to rust so I'd clean out the tank by putting in a few steel nuts and bolts (or a length of chain) and some fuel. Swirl that about and repeat until it comes out clear. Use a magnet to remove all the nuts and bolts if they won't pour out...
If you decide to go the POR15 route then I recommend buying the super starter kit, which comes with stuff to clean the tank and prepare the metal so there is no need to use a rust converter. There enough paint to do 2-3 tanks depending on the size.
Thanks gents, more good advice, i will have to price up some with phosphoric acid, i've got some ss BB's i used to clean a Coleman tank liner out but maybe they would be a bit too rounded for the job, Just had a look on ebay for the ss kit, i was hoping that included a small tin of the tank seal but alas no chance at those prices, i'm guessing this is the one i would need POR15 Motorcycle Bike Fuel Tank Sealer Repair Kit Protection Rust Ethanol POR 15 | eBay
£50! I think I'd need to have a few lamps and lanterns needing 'the treatment' before I shelled out that much. Lord, I feel faint, I need to sit down...
Haha i know what you mean, you'd like to think there was a good few tanks worth there wouldn't you! i was surprised my tank even had a leak as it looks pretty solid, i reckon i will go the cheap route first and see what happens I do have an AL15A to do next though!
@MG With kerosene (paraffin) the "cheap" route would be: get rust out; use rust converter; drill hole; solder; put kerosene in tank; pressurise... then leave pressurised for a day or so to see if there are no more leaks. I have managed to keep a tin of POR 15 tank sealer for "future use" by drilling a small hole in the lid, pouring out what I need, and inserting a screw in the hole immediately. I've used the same tin three times so far (on Coleman tanks!). But don't buy it if it's not needed - too expensive Cheers Tony
Yes that was the first one i looked at, shame it doesn't come with the tank sealant as well though, Forgive my inexperience, so drilling a hole would clean it out plus give a better key for the solder? I read on here electrical solder is best is that right? Good plan with the POR15 i will have to do that if it comes to it.
Has this been tried? Link it looks quite good and says it can be applied over rust. Perhaps it could be applied to the inside and out of the tank where the hole is and then rubbed down on the outside before painting?
I have repaired holes like this with a brass or steel plug. Drill hole to take a bolt. Drop cotton into tank and fiddle it out of the filler. Tie to bolt thread and pull into the hole. Have to clean around the hole a best you can with a cranked sharp. With bolt in place attach a wire and hang then run a solder seal and file flush to tank. The bolt head provides a mechanical stop so all the solder does is seal the joint. Works well if a little fiddly. ::Neil::
Well that is a professional fix, thanks Neil, any suggestions for hole to bolt size for this complete novice please? I'm guessing its also a good idea to keep the outer areas cool when soldering, Can someone make it easy for me and suggest which liquid rust converter containing phosphoric acid i could use please as not having much luck finding one so far, thanks.
@MG I use a product called "Rustbuster". I don't know if it's available in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. Tony
@MG Here's the MSDS (if you had the main ingredients, you could make your own): http://www.bondall.com/wp-content/uploads/HXR67-RANEX-RUST-BUSTER.pdf Cheers Tony
Bolt big enough to fill the hole you drilll. Part fill tank with water and wrap a wet cloth around the feed tube fitting and filler hole. You only need heat for a very short time to just run the solder anyway. Use a longish bolt, say 10-15mm and apply heat to the bolt tip and let the heat work down the bolt, as soon as the solder runs remove the heat. Probably be OK without water this way but better to play it safe I guess. Big secret as ever is bright clean metal inside and out. I know inside is tricky but do what you can. ::Neil::
