Modify a Tilley X246 for Ocean use

A sort of related question. Why do the radiators need an insulating tube and not the lamp? I would have thought they would get just as hot.

 

Maybe it's because of the reflector. Perhaps the reflected heat add to the temperature on the vaporiser on a radiator compared to a lantern where the heat is allowed to radiate all around.

 

It was after reading the other post about the swollen vapouriser that I thought, why not have an insulator on a lamp? Will it still work?

 

@Henry Plews
I like your solution. Looking at the additional spares used and overall pictures of the modified lamp I cannot see how these parts interact with the existing vapouriser. Can you explain?

Is the kit suggested by @ROBBO55 going to be all I need for the modification?

Thanks
Sorry if I am erratic in my replies but you can imagine how loaded I am with the preparation of a round the world!

 

@thalassobiote

The kit suggested by Martin (@ROBBO55 ) is all you need. If you decide to buy one, you will find that you do not need grid part 1230.

The wire mantle for a heater is bigger than a mantle for light and so it needs a longer tube to support it. It will slide over the vapouriser in the same way as on other Tilley lamps.

All you need to do is take out the existing short mantle tube and screw in the longer tube which comes with the kit but don't forget to remove the burner grid first. Slide on the insulating tube and wire mantle, and then screw on the nut to hold them in place. It's as easy as that.

Henry.

 

@Henry Plews @ROBBO55
just bought the kit and shipped it to England to my girlfriend.

I also bought a gaskets kit.

Question:
as said the lamp needs servicing as it sat unused for a while. when I mange to put some pressure in the tank and open the valve the paraffin will come erraticly out from the vapouriser, sometimes it odeas, sometimes not, and the flow goes sideway instead of going straight and plnty as it used to be in the good times...
What shall I do?

 

Either carbon in the vapouriser or the hole is enlarged. remove the cleaning needle and see if you can gently knock out any debris or a heat and quench as described elsewhere may clear the carbon build up. You may need to try another vapouriser.

 

@KAB
I removed the needle. it does not seem too bad, it is black, yes but not encrusted...
What is the procedure for cleaning the vapouriser you are mentioning in your previous comment?

 

@thalassobiote

“Heat and quench”:

Use a propane torch to heat the steel vapouriser to very hot and then dip it in cold water. The sharp shock will loosen the carbon. Tap out the carbon. Do this a few times.

Don’t heat up the brass end too much; or apply torch to the jet tip.

I use carburettor cleaner after doing this.

Make sure you take a couple of spare vapourisers with you when you go sailing around the world...

Cheers

Tony

 

I bought the kit and had the chance of testing just recently.
I changed all the gaskets in the lamp and fitted a new 606 vapouriser. Unfortunately the control cock seems not to work perfectly so that the vapouriser leeks even if the knob is set to 'off' postition.
I pre-heated with a propane blow torch and once the knob has been fully opened a

yellow, fat flame came out from the top of the lamp in a similar way of a not properly pre-heated lamp.

Why?
Any idea?

 

@thalassobiote

1.Check the jet in the top of the vapouriser: make sure it has not been damaged (enlarged).

2. Look at the top of the jet and see if the tip of the cleaning needle emerges slightly when in the full “off” position. If not straighten the cleaning needle and try again. If it still doesn’t reach the jet, try the one from the old vapouriser.

3. Reset your pip/spring in the control cock.

4. The Tilley instructions say the preheat (with methylated spirits) for two minutes. The vapouriser and burner need to be very hot.

Cheers

Tony

 

@thalassobiote

Was there a lot of pressure in the tank when you turned the control knob on ? If the tank is full, 10 pump stokes is usually plenty to start with.
I have also (sometimes) used a propane torch, it's surprising how long it takes to get everything hot enough. With a propane torch, the heat is concentrated on the vapouriser but the flame from the spirit torch also heats the burner. A well as doing what @Tony Press suggests, try pre-heating with the spirit torch and see if it does make a difference.

Henry.

 

Tony, here are my replies:
1-quite sure it has been not. I have two brand new 606 vapourisers from Tilley.
2-One of the needles does this, the other does not. I tried the one that does and the result is a leak of paraffin even if full-off position
3-HOW CAN I DO THIS?
4-I am sure I preheated enough

 

I am reluctantly giving up the idea of bringing my Tilley with me.
I've used the lamo with great satisfaction in the past while sailing but this long lasting unefficiency and my lack of time while the day of the start is getting close is pushing the idea aside. Sad!

 

@thalassobiote

Have another look at the small rubber pip at the bottom of the control cock and make sure it is clean and sits evenly in its brass cup. You could also try turning it over. Stretch the spring a little but not too much. Something else that you could try is to use fine wire wool and polish inside the bottom of the control cock where the rubber pip sits but be sure to wash off any fine pieces of wire wool (or use a magnet) before putting it all back together again.

Sadly, these days, even new Tilley vapourisers aren't guaranteed to be perfect - I once had one that didn't have a hole at the business end !

I wish you good luck,
Henry.

 

@thalassobiote

Exactly what Henry said.

Cheers

Tony