I recently won off Ebay a Petromax 829/500CP lantern. Description was that this lantern was in storage for 20 years and that the fuel had been removed although when received, the tank was wet with fuel. The usual pitting of the nickel which would easily clean but not to original shine. Knowing that this was in storage, perhaps a shed, it came as no surprise that a wasp nest consisting of mud had been built on the two lower sections of the lantern which was also easily removed and cleaned. In order for me to test the lantern I would prefer to use the rapid preheater it came with. However looking at the hole, there were remmants of the match heads inside. The rubber plug that covers the hole was a bit bad but removing the whole rubber revealed the other side to be supple so I just inverted it. The difficult part was that the hole was totally plugged perhaps by melted rubber or carbon from the matches as the owner obviously just shut close the preheater leaving carbon debris inside. No wonder the previous owner could no longer light the lantern. Now here is the problem, in order to clean the preheater nipple, I had to remove the tube that sits on the nipple and it is stuck hard. I am unable to use any metal tool as it will deform the tube. I did have a really small drill bit .021 which I mounted on collete and tried to clear the hole manually. Doing so I buggered up when the drill bit snapped inside the hole leaving it there. There is a bit of air going through now but not enough to dislodge the broken bit. I do want to work on the preheater and keep it original by removing the nipple by needed two wrenches to counter the nipple (I guess those who have worked on the preheater knows this). However my wrench would sit on one but due to the thickness of the jaw would also sit on the nipple nut I was wondering how to 1) remove the tube from the nipple heat since its stuck hard, 2) if I did remove the nipple, could I from the underside dislodge the broken drill bit. I have thought of heating up the area where the tube sits on the nipple but I see that it may affect the blue plastic that sits on the preheater. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Please excuse my descriptions as I am just learning the correct names of each part. By the way, the bottom of the tank is marked 5151 so is it correct to say it was manufactured on the 51st week on a Friday of 1961? Thanks Ron
I got a thin wrench for the bottom. maybe find one used or grind one down? the old preheaters seem much better made but a lot of them are so jammed with crud that replacing may be best. I tried soaking and 80 ps1 air and no luck with 2 of mine. would like to try a ultrasonic cleaner and will soon. good luck Ron , Heck you probably have it off by now
Nagant, I just ordered two milspec 9/16 wrench (the other to counter the other nut) jaw thickness is 1/8 inch and once it arrives hopefully I can get it cleaned up. If the tube does not budge after removal, then I may have to heat it up to burn up the crud. Will post developments when the lantern is cleaned and lighted. I'd like to keep the original parts workin instead of getting new ones as much as possible as I understand they older ones do work much better than the newer ones. Ron
Hello Ron, The preheater tube should come off. Normally it takes some wiggling but it should come off fairly easily. The jet should come off too but if it is cross threaded it might be stuck. Check out this Link Are these the wrenches your talking about?
Hey Jeff I dont have any petromax wrenches so I had to order special 9/16 in. 1/8 thickness open wrench. Am afraid the tube is stuck fast but if I can remove the jet, i could heat it up to where it may come off and at the same time clean the jet hole. Ron
Some gentle heating with a small propane torch or butane torch might do the trick. You should be able to remove the whole preheater too though. You will have to loosen the nut under the preheater jet. This will allow the preheating lever to move. Good luck Jeff
If your having trouble removing the preheater flame tube, try a wood dowel slipped inside the open end. a little wiggling and it should break the crud bond loose. spraying a good solvent on it before hand should get the job done.
Hi Ron, If you can get the whole preheater assembly out of the fount you'll find that the fuel pickup tube will unscrew from the nozzle asssembly. The fuel/air orifices can be poked out with a pricker from a Coleman generator. Be sure to remove the screen from the fuel pickup and back flush that. I use some .070 stainless wire to ream out the pickup tube itself. Once you can see daylight through all the orifices then assemble it and give it a try with it connected to the fount. If you have the valve/vaporizer on the fount you can test the rapid. When everything is clean you should get a nice blue flame with orange tips. Oh, BTW, that 5151 date stamp means week 51 of 1965 on a Monday. Bob
Hey Bob, thanks for the tip. I did not know that could be done. I will get to work on it and post back results. Yes, I will backflush the screen on the pick up tube. And thanks for the correction on the "5151" date code. Brilliant tips come from the wisdom of the members of this forum. Ron
Just an update. Well I was able to disassemble everything on the preheater. The stubborn director tube had to be heat and quenched 4x before it came off the head of the nipple. I was also able to unscrew the pick up tube without a hitch. Only problem is the hole on the main body is really "efft" up and nothing would unplug the darn thing as even the thinnest wire would bend if I try to push it in (even after 5x heat and quench). So as I mentioned it may be a reason this was in the previous owners shed for 20 years or so. The nipple nut's hole got cleared but is also badly worn so it will just be a backup if ever Time for me to order the whole assembly - my last option. Thank you for all the suggestions given and it was indeed a learning curve for me and the lantern will have to wait until the complete preheate assembly arrives Ron
If you order a replacement rapid assembly be careful where you get it. I ordered one from that place in Florida that makes those... eh hem..."Petromax type" lanterns. Well, it came in and the the hole for the fuel WAS NOT DRILLED. So much for Chinese Q.C. Now that the un named Florida outfit has screwed us USA Petromax users out of one of our best parts suppliers in Germany you may want to put together an order to the other, or some other place in Europe. Yeah, I know the "shipping cost". So make a big enough order with enough parts to make it worth while. Gaskets, foot valve seals and springs, pump leathers, NRV repair parts. You know, all the stuff you might need for an overhaul. I'm sure our European collector friends can steer you to where "the bones are buried". Bob
Hey Bob, I hear you on that. Talk about QC Have already asked my sister to get the parts in Europe as she lives there. Dont know why Pelam does not ship to the US. Alternatively perhaps Basecamp and another site does have the parts. I have to list down and see what I need. Yup worth it if I can just place 1 order for all the parts. Bob, whats your opinion on the Britelyt parts for Petromax...are these the same as the one you are referring to as knock offs? Thanks for the heads up. Ron
Hi Ron, I've ordered some parts this evening from the company I've pt'd you about. These should arrive early next week. I'll let you know if quality is OK or not (it'd better be, or else... ). Some parts are for the Anchor, others for the Petromax. All the best, Wim
Strange I can order parts from Pelam. Sounthern lamp supply use to care Petromax parts but no longer for some strange reason. Jeff
Because they may have gotten them from Pelam. But they may have gotten them from that place in Fla. Pelam won't ship to the USA any longer and the other place I hear is having "difficulty" getting parts. Sucks to be them. Pelam can ship parts to Canada because Britelyt's trademark BULL$HIT doesn't apply there. Only in the USA. Bob
the rapid i ordered from southern lamp has elongated holes, very slight but noticeable. haven't used it yet but think it will work.
Are you talking about the two air holes on the body of the rapid under the atomizer nozzle? That may not have any effect as long as the fuel/air mixture is correct. But if the atomizer nozzle hole is elongated that may effect the operation of the rapid. Bob
Its the air holes, also the fuel hole too. they seem to be gang drilled at a slight angle, possibly the part was at a angle when drilled. atomizer looks good. O.K, are the parts from Florida made in the same shop as Pelam parts? different supplier or country? or Pelam just have better quality control and send back the duds.
I think most of the parts sold today are made in China. Maybe Pelam had some original new old stock, but most if it would be gone by now I guess. If not advertised as genuine Petromax I believe one can be pretty sure it is an eastern copy. As said before, it'll all be a matter of Quality Control (and some luck ) Regards, Wim
