Hey. I shared this over on CCF as I live in Canada and more active there. But I found this in Canada, but not in my hands yet. Should I be afraid of that solder? I was thinking it might be from an old badge that was on there, but couldn' find similar pieces. I just found it odd yo solder it sideways as most stresscracks are vertical. Any opinions are greatly appreciated!
@TomFetti It’s hard to say from that photo, but if you really want it and it has a hole, you could solder a patch over the area. Cheers Tony
Is it possible to get a view from inside the tank. If i recall, I think there was a company that used Primus units and then placed their own nameplate over the original branding. Ill take a look.
I have already bought, now waiting for shipping. It's been listed for two months with no one buying as it is far East in Canada. But I believe it's worth a shot. As it appears like it might of had a badge over it. I don' have it in my possession, it' on its way from the opposite side of Canada. Once it gets here I am going to check the inside for damage before doing anything else. As I wouldn' want to remove it if it was ment to be there. But that would be awesome if you had info on pieces with badges. I tried on Google but it only picks up certain photos not all of that model.
Very helpful info there!! I am hoping it was something to that effect. The rest of the tank looked very clean so it made me think this might of been a badge. Do you have any references to this type of re-badging? I tried my best to find anything with a badge on it,and came up empty handed! Thanks a lot!!
It's just to check the 1320-gallery, and you will see some re-badged lanterns. 1020 that has been converted at the factory to run on alcohol and then with a 1320 badge soldered over the old model number. Same goes for the 391, 1321 and 1381 when it comes to some other lantern models. Then you have the table lamps: 392, 394 and 1325. A random 1320:
By the location of the solder and the straight line above it with different tones of tarnish either side, I would be confident that it was a different type branding etc that was once attached, time will tell. The lantern appears to be a very early one. Hope it turns out ok!
The chances are that there has been another badge attached at some time. But on a slightly negative note. I have a brass 991 that had been soldered heavily over both areas on the tank where the name and number stamping are. I diligently cleaned up the lantern and removed the solder only to reveal that when I pressurised the lantern there was a slow weep of kerosene through the stamping. This is the only time I have seen this on a Primus lamp and thought it a one off. Maybe it isn't.
I have had the same weep of fuel from the stamping on a Coleman lantern. So not a unique problem at all. Not common though. ::Neil::
Thanks you everyone for all the information, tomorrow i should have it & fingers are crossed it's not a patch. Either way it never broke the bank and not common to find in Canada!
Well you were correct! as the bottom of the lettering has opened up a faint crack. I cleaned it up either way and with put on the back burner for now, as i got a few other projects in the works. Nils was correct it was a faint crack on the stamping. i tried to use a camera inside, but it was to hard to see if there was anything.
@TomFetti That crack is unusual. Do you think it started at a letter (like the N)? It’s repairable with a patch, but you’ll lose the stamping. I would also drill a small hole at each end of the crack. Cheers Tony
@Tony Press No it actually starts at the end of the R all the way to the last 0 in 1020. (It's hard to see due to my phone reflection.) But about drilling two holes, i take it that's to stop the crack from getting any bigger? But since it is Kero, a solder patch wouldn't be a bad idea eh? I am just not keen on running anything repaired, i haven't yet. Cheers!
@TomFetti The hole at each end is to stop the crack spreading. A soldered brass patch would be a good safe repair. Cheers Tony
If you had the patience or a saint, limitless perseverance and time was no object, AND you didn't care if it all went horribly wrong, I suppose you could remove the base, patch the crack on the inside and then re-attach the base again, thus preserving the stamping, but what a job! Mind you, I've seen members attempt seemingly impossible repairs before. Good luck whatever you decide to do - it is a very pretty lantern.
@ColinG That would be very difficult manoeuvre given the way the bottom of the tank is formed, pressed and soldered. Tony
If you decide to repair the crack, you could consider this: Harris SBSKPOP Stay-brite Silver Bearing Solder It is a low temp solder with very high tensile strength and excellent flow.
@Tony Press , it was recommended to me by a friend and fellow collector Craig who uses it professionally. He says that the tensile strength is such that small cracks can be chased out and soldered without patching. The crack in the 1020 fount looks too long to repair without a patch but this solder should do a neat job and as a bonus stays shiny unlike lead/tin solder.
I was given some Low Temp Silver solder from fitters where I worked. I think CIG (and probably others welding supplies ) have it and a flux, it can be used with a hot soldering iron. Clean up well as flux is pretty potent.
I really appreciate the opinion on what i should do, as i haven't dealt with to many stress cracked items. I like the idea of a brass patch soldered on, as i might be able to find someone who could form a patch and add '1020' or something to the patch. It looks so good cleaned up, but will have to be a shelf queen until i can get around to get the rest of the parts & it repaired!
I will have to check this out even if i only do a patch. But it will be a bit before i believe i get this going.
