Is there something wrong with this Optimus 930? When I screw the control cock into the tank I cannot seem to get the tap to line up in the correct position.
I don't think I have ever taken the valve out of a 930. Never had need to. Maybe some of the other guys will know but it is perhaps soldered in place? Looks to be remains of solder on the threads perhaps. That might explain why it won't line up and seal. ::Neil::
It's been a while since I've worked on a 930, but I'm sure they use the same construction as the other Optimus lamps and use a lead washer. With a lead washer it can usually be tightened up to the right position. You have to be careful not to tighten too far, as you can't back off with lead.
I am sure there was a lead washer, but I can't figure out where it went. It just seems to have disappeared This is the first Optimus I have fettled and next time I will leave this bit alone I need a new needle and jet for it and base-camp list a vapouriser washer for a 930 so I will buy another.
I'd recommend a Px or similar 250cp jet and needle. Even though it says 300cp on the tank, the design is actually the same as the Optimus 200. I'd still use a 300cp mantle though.
Yes I wasn't sure if that silver ring was supposed to be attached to the tank. Will the heat discolour the tank plating when I try and solder it back on?
It shouldn't with just lead solder. It's only when you get up to the temperatures needed for silver soldering that there is a problem with the nickel plating.
A question- What do you use to get the tank hot enough to flow the solder? I think a propane torch would be too hot and might hurt the nickle. I have a similar problem with a Primus tank. Only I need to remove and replace a valve-to plate the tank. VBW Dan MacPherson
Just about every torch made that screws onto a propane/LP gas 1 lb bottle suffers from the same problem, THE FLAME IS TO BIG!!! Speaking from the experience of a pipe fitter that had to do repairs on equipment that required the heat to be "localized" this type torch is what's needed. Presto-Lite soft flame torch For doing soft solder repairs this is what works best. Because you can get different sized tips, you can control the heat much better. The No 1-A tip produces a very small flame with a short length. The length of the flame helps to keep it localized. Bob
I was not able to remove the nickel plated part from the vapouriser. It is stuck on there well and tight and it is too smooth to get any grip on it so I think the only way to get it off would be to bite into it with mole grips. So I experimented with using Teflon tape to seal up the thread and I managed to get it airtight. It runs well and is surprisingly bright for a 300 CP lamp. The glass was missing so I got a Coleman 200/201 shade.
These lanterns run well and will often do in excess of 200 cp which appears bright when you are used to the 100 to 150 that most 300 cp lanterns manage. In my humble opinion the 930 is about the best Optimus ever made. ::Neil::
Bob- does that 1-A tip fit a propane torch? Or are you using an acetyline torch? I'd like to use propane, although I have an oxy-acetyline set up if I have to use it. Dan
Hi Dan, The Presto-Lite torch uses an air/acetylene mix. A small MC tank will last a LONG time. There also is what's known as a "Snappy Adapter" that allows you to use Turbo Torch tips with this handle. Snappy Adapter These tips produce a flame that is hot enough to silver braze with just an air/acetylene mix. I use this one a lot just for heating to break things loose. A-2 Turbo Torch tip This is the smallest. It makes a short intense flame. I have them in all different sizes all the way up to the A-36 that I have silver brazed 4" copper tubing using it. It's so LOUD that you need ear protection. It will suck a "B" tank of acetylene dry in 5 minutes. But that's the extreme. Bob
