hi all, I have a leaking Kayen/Tilley fount. I can see kero leaking through the underside fount base seal when pressurized. Is this repairable? I have a magnet hanging of the fount, so it’s not brass.
The leak is coming through what looks like a fold on the rim of the base. There is a weld seam on some sections of the fold but it isn’t continuous. The mantle tie points to the leak spot. I wonder if a delicate weld seam would fix this? Unfortunately I’m not a welder and not very delicate
I was thinking that solder would possibly be the solution. There was a slight flat spot on the rim so I’m guessing it’s taken a knock and opened the seam. What exactly is ‘sweating’ solder??
@Mustlust In my understanding, “sweating” soldering is when you join two bits of metal together by “tinning” one piece (applying a thin layer of slider to it), placing both pieces together, applying heat and allowing the molten solder to bond the pieces together. None-the-less, this is what I would do in your case. First though wash your tank out so that it’s got no fuel. 1. Thoroughly clean the area around the leak so that it is free of paint and kerosene. 2. Use fine emery paper to the bare metal surface around the leak and especially along any seam. 3. Apply flux to the area of the leak. 4. Using electrical solder, apply heat directly to the area of the leak until the solder runs, then take the heat off straight away. 5. Let it cool. 6. Put (old) kerosene in tank and test under pressure. Tony
@Mustlust By the way, that tank looks interesting. Can you post a photo of the whole tank? Cheers Tony
@Mustlust PPS: I’ve just been looking at the photos on a big screen. Does the base of the tank bulge out? Tony
Tank looks a std EX100 although control cock appears to be Kayen??? The fount shape looks similar to my other Tilley.
I believe these steel tank Kayen AP2s were always from Kopsen. Correct me if I'm wrong. The ones I have seen have always been this green colour as well. It certainly sounds like the soldering for the seam in the base has given way. I wouldn't expect a steel base to bulge though.
Tony beat me to it. That tank does look like it was over pressured at some point. I can't see whether the rim has worn or if the leak is on the fold.
Wow, you guys are good!! Upon closer inspection the base is almost sitting on the bench and at the same level as the rim. The pump is labeled Tilley made in Kendon so I wonder if this was Kayen utilizing parts on hand at the time??
@Mustlust 1. If the tank bottom is bulged, your tank is not safely repairable. 2. Are you positive both the top and bottom of the tank are steel? Tony
@Mustlust , If the fount and bottom part are made of steel, brazing it with silvered-brass rods with an oxy-acetylene torch could rectify the problem too. You'll need some flux too. The fount had been over-pressurized in the past. I don't know if its rusted and thinned-out too much on the inside. If you are sufficiently skilled with the oxy torch, it could provide fast localized heating on the spot to be brazed without heating up the other sections too much, which could harm the integrity of the other soldered or brazed-jointed seams such as the pump port. Otherwise, you might be able to get some help from the guys in an automotive or radiator repair shop.
To give some idea of what you are working with. Here are photo's of a Kopsen HL7 that I acquired at an auction some time ago the base had been removed and some serious panel work had been carried out. I had not previously noticed the disc supporting the base of the column. The hex key is 10mm and give some idea of the curvature of the base. The base of yours looks to have been distorted if you can get into shape for a close fit all round I would think a solder repair would be feasible with low temp I think its (5 percent) silver solder which can be used with a v/hot iron and a special flux (Welding supliers) carry it
@Graham P Great photos. I didn’t get a chance to get mine before I started traveling again, but your photos are much more informative. It’s good to see how the column is attached as well. I assume you managed to get your lamp back together and working properly. Could you explain the sequence of re-soldering the base back on? Cheers Tony
