Hipolito 250 Fettle and Manometer Question

G’day all , I picked up this Hipolito 250 recently and have started the fettle. It's the first one I have found.

Here are some before shots and a help needed question regarding the manometer.
It’s been well used meaning not in great condition and needs a lot of work. So I’ll update the post as I go along. It was acquired locally and from the corroded condition I am thinking it was used fishing in a saltwater environment.



Here is the manometer. Despite it’d condition it appears to work.



Will someone please post a good image of the dial face so I can make a new one?

Thanks

 

It's from H 502 ( 500 CP )

 

Great find, keep us updated with the rebuild. I have a NOS 250 Hipolito if you require any other reference info.

 

That is the older (and I think better) Hipolito 250 made before the Automatic model. Petromax 821 parts including the hood will fit.

 

Happy fettling!

 

Thanks @Sellig33 for the photo.
@eiremax is the dial graduations and red line on the 500 CP manometer the same as the 250 CP?
Thanks @phaedrus42 for the information it helps to know what parts I may be looking for.
Thanks @JEFF JOHNSON I am enjoying the challenge with this lantern.

I have the lantern pulled apart and started cleaning.



As you can see in this photo of the pickup tube the fuel lacquer build up is substantial.



It is the same in the fount. I tried citric acid and steel nuts but it had very little effect. So I moved on to Lacquer thinners and steel nuts. It took a couple of days soaking and shaking but the lacquer finally cleaned up. The steel inner casing (inner hood) is still in citric acid removing the rust.
I’m working on all the other bits now.

 

Its a wee bit dirty but as you can make out it appears to be the same!

 

Thanks @eiremax

 

Not a bother!

 

Update.

Cleaning all the corrosion, crap and carbon built up off the components has taken some time. Numerous dilute citric acid baths and fine steel wool finally had an effect. Finished with Autosol and bees wax.


The top of the inner hood has corroded away but I’m not too worried as this is sandwiched between the outer hood and the securing plate. The hood screws are badly corroded and need replacing


A week in dilute citric acid cleaned the rust of the steel inner casing


The globe cage bottom plate has lost nearly all its plating and has some rather deep corrosion marks. I gave up trying to remove corrosion marks.


Other components cleaned and ready for assembly.


Repairs next.

 

It’s coming along quite well, Martin.

Cheers

Tony

 

Repairs

The screws in the hood were corroded beyond repair. The holes in the hoods and the securing plate were also corroded making them oversize.
I cut M5 x 0.8 stainless steel screws to length and taped the holes accordingly.


The threads on the bail mounts and studs were badly damaged. After cleaning the mounts were retaped and the threads re cut on the studs. My best guess on the thread was M5 x 0.8


The studs were originally swaged onto the end of opposing cage rods. One had come adrift but there was not enough of the rivet end to swage the stud back on. I could have braised it back on but that would have damaged the plating so I decided to use a screw to secure the stud.
I drilled the rod with a 1.5mm drill and taped the hole M2 x 0.5. The red tape was positioned to make sure I didn't reach the end of the drill hole and snap the tap. (the tapping was straighter than it appears in the 3rd photo)


When cleaning the sprit cup I found one of the spot welds had failed and the other was also on the way out.
This was repaired using braise with 5% silver content.


Still thinking out the manometer repair

 

Nice work.

 

Fine work, Martin! It is shaping up well.

 

Thank eiremax, Gilles, Phil for the encouragement.

OK it’s time to put it all back together.

Hood assembled with the new screws.


New lead washer made for the valve assembly.


The packing around the spindle was worn and rather thin. Although it was a fibre material I decided to leave what was left in place and increase its thickness using a graphite strip cut from a sheet (graphite sheet purchased from Trojandog Graphite Foil Sheets ).


At the back of the control wheel there was a rubber section. I’m not sure if it was original or an attempt to stop a leak when the shaft spindle packing became worn. I decided to leave it in place.


All assembled


I don’t have a spanner to set the gap so I started with a gap of 12.2mm as suggested in this informative post
Jet sizes & other Petromax information
Primed and tested without a mantle. The flame was rather orange.


I increased the gap to 12.5mm and the flame improved but still a rich mixture.


I increased the gap to 12.8mm and was happy with the mixture.


With a mantle fitted.


Still thinking about the manometer repair and it’s coming together (in my head anyway )

 

Great job Martin

 

Well done. Like it.

 

Nice! How the repro manometer coming along?

 

It has shaped up very nicely!

 

@eiremax
The manometer needs some lathe work and I'm looking for suitable material to make a new outer cap. But the repair is on the back burner for now. I'm getting ready for a trip and don't have time to do it properly.

 

I am guessing taht buying a new cap/manometer is too easy ?

 

Good work, @ROBBO55.

Cheers

Tony

 

G'day Wim, I like a challenge. Buying a new one is plan 'B' but at this stage I haven't had a real look for one.

Thanks every one

 

The Manometer.

OK, I thought it was time to finish this fettle and the manometer. It’s not copy of the original missing cover but I’m happy with the result.

Pulled the manometer apart and cleaned all the components.

I couldn’t find a piece of tubing with the correct dimensions but did find a piece of steel pipe that could be machined to what I wanted. The inner diameter was machined to 24.5 mm (approx. 1”). Filed two slots in the back of the ring to fit over the bleed screw mount and drilled a hole for the securing screw.

The dial plate was painted white and the inner ring silver.

Cut a new glazing from a piece of suitable plastic sheet. This was held in place using a circlip (but could have been glued in).



I found a picture of a usable face in the reference gallery and copied it. Then I scaled it down to fit on the dial plate and glued it on (I should have washed my hands first).



The screw securing the cover was sheared off and I had to carefully drill it out and tap the hole to match a suitable screw found in my bits and pieces tin.

Assembled all the components.



Tested it on the lantern.

I haven’t measured its accuracy but the feel and brightness of the lantern feels right.

 

Very high recognition and respect for your work

Regards, Reinhard

 

Very well done. Better than I could do, for sure.

 

Amazing job, well done

 

Thanks Reinhard, George and Lantern Tom for the encouragement.
Much appreciated.

 

Your workmanship is a credit to you plus patience,
Bob .