Primus 1020 - 1956

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by Paraffinhead, Feb 2, 2019.

  1. Paraffinhead United Kingdom

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    Found this for sale not too far away - tank is engraved Primus model 1020, date code letters AV which makes it 1956 I believe, the mica is past its best really. I fitted a new pump cup & nrv and added a Butterly 300-400cp mantle, used a Tilley preheater & off she went first time.

    I'd assumed that there should be a spirit cup for preheating but have found quite a few pics of lamps without one. Can anyone enlighten me (sorry for the pun!) on correct lighting procedure?

    Paul. IMG_5107.jpg IMG_5117.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
  2. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    Awesome!! I love mine
     
  3. Paraffinhead United Kingdom

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    How do you light yours? I used a Tilley preheat torch, I presume there should be a Petromax style spirit cup which has gone AWOL.

    Paul.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2019
  4. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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  5. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Have a look here for the type of spirit cup your lantern should have. The design changed a little over the years but all of them had enough spring in them to clip into the groove in the vapouriser jamb nut.
    Preheating cups for Primus 1020

    Henry.
     
  6. MYN

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    Paul, you have a great lantern there.

    Its not very often that one gets to light up an old lantern first time without having to go through the usual thorough clean-up/out and other fettling work.

    Regards,
    MYN.
     
  7. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    As Henry says, there should have been a spirit cup on the lantern. This is probably the biggest design flaw Primus made as it wasn't firmly attached. It is not uncommon to find a Primus lamp without the spirit cup. So far there have been many individual attempts to make a replacement, but there is nothing (that I know of) available in quantity at a sensible price.
     
  8. Paraffinhead United Kingdom

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    I have a couple of Anchor 909's and scrappers pop on Fleabay regularly so I will give this a go - thanks for the photos :)
     
  9. Martin K.

    Martin K. Subscriber

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  10. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

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    Ok, I found out how to upload pictures on the forum the hard way, I hope no problems this time.
    A little more help could make things easier for future members.

    I am working on two Primus 1020 lamps too and found two different tops or hats.
    One has some sort of cap mounted in it with a bolt on top.
    The other one has no hole in it so obviously it has never had such a cap.

    Can anyone explain the difference?

    One lamp is dated AU and one is dated AL.

    Regards,

    Ton.

    20190705_091535.jpg

    20190705_091516.jpg

    20190705_091458.jpg
     
  11. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    Maybe just to save a few cents on the manufacture side?:whistle:
     
  12. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

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    Besides, I am not sure one can use the same date chart as shown on the Classic Camp Stove forum?
    One of my lamps has a little circle on the bottom in which it says AU and the letter Z under AU in the same circle.
    The other lamp same story, a circle, AL in it and under AL the number 5 in the same circle.
    Anyone who can date my lamps?
    That answer should also give the answer if it was to save some cents as George mentions.

    And another question is, should every 1020 has the plate as shown in the next picture?

    20190705_192803.jpg

    It is called burner plate and has part number 6335 on the original Primus list.

    http://www.fogas.se/rwdx/files//991-1020s.jpg

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  13. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    The one with the inner 'cone' is used up until 1954, so would match your 1020 from 1947 (AL). From the later part of 1954 there were a few savings in production and this cone was left out. Therefore no hole in the top. This matches the one from 1955 (AU).

    I believe the original idea for the cone (together with the loose plate on the burner) was to lead hot air from the mantle away from the mixing tube and out the vents in the hood. In 1954 they obviously decided these features were not worth the expense and the plate and the cone were left out. Personally I havn't seen any degradation of performance from a post 1954 1020 to an earlier one.
     
  14. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    Agree, I don't see any performance difference. I have a Primus 1020 dated 1935, and one dated 1955, and both perform excellently. :content::thumbup:
     
  15. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

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    Thank you both Niels and George, what I wonder, the green on the top of the lamp, is it enamelled or just paint.
    In other words, is there some way to paint the top in the right colour or will it burn away in no time?

    And I found the next link above but I cannot open it, anyone knows why?

    https://classicpressurelamps.com/threads/1935-primus-1020-instructions.8954/

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  16. Carlsson

    Carlsson Sweden Admin/Founder Member

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    You should be able to see the instructions in that link.
    Does it still not work?

    The green top is enamelled.
     
  17. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

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    Yes, it is working now! And enamelled, hard to get those fine again I suppose.
    On the other hand I bought two 1020 lamps now and both with a spirit cup in a very good shape.

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  18. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    Don't know of many paints that will stand up to that kind of heat. I'm no expert, though. Even enamel coating can have problems at times.:-({|=
     
  19. ColinG United Kingdom

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    As far as I know there are no paints that truly stand up to the temperatures a lantern throws out. Some auto engine paints go quite high but you're usually limited in your choice of colour. It's probably best to enjoy what you have.
     
  20. MYN

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    There are some that had state in their technical datasheet that one of their products could perform at aprrox. 1000°C.
    Continuously too!
    Check out Jotatemp 1000 Ceramic.
    Well, green is not an available colour though.
     
  21. ColinG United Kingdom

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    I'm guessing black will be the colour of choice for paints that survive such high temperatures.
     

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