If you look back in my history you can see how long this video took to make, big thanks for the help folks on here gave me in identifying the lamp and in figuring out the control cock seals. Please forgive my calling it a lantern in the video
A well presented video and it is a lantern! All lanterns are also lamps but not all lamps are lanterns. The pump which is in that lantern is a later one.
As you have two Guardsman lanterns, perhaps you would enjoy modifying one of them so that a 169 vapouriser can be used and the link below shows relevant information. 1950-1954 Guardsman & reflector.
Very good but there is one thing I would take issue with. It is not good practice to remove the air tubes from a Tilley burner casting. It's OK with a burner that has seen little use but in an older burner which has been well used the threads get burnt and when you unscew them the threads can be so badly damaged they will never screw back in and hold. Better to leave the three tubes in place or you could find you have a scrap burner. ::Neil::
NRV., springs can be resurrected by stretching them and that bug screen which you have is the early one and they are scarce, it's a good idea to use a wire to clear the fuel feed tube, which is soldered into the tank. Early Tilley insect shield.
Good advice from Neil. I thought I would loose my mind working on a Tilley burner! I broke it all down, cleaned it all up and then tried to resemble it. I spent damn near 2 1/2 hours trying to fit those GD air tubes back in the burner! My dog, at the time, learned a whole new vocabulary that day!
Nice video Curt. A pity I saw Neil's warning about taking apart burner assembly only now. I recently damaged one severely attempting a disassembly I suggest to leave the burner assembled and to clean it with pipe cleaner, frayed bicycle cable or air pressure etc. in situ.
I learn a lot by posting videos and getting good responses like Neil's. I've taken several burners apart and now that I think of it one of them did have some chewed up threads. I don't remember what I did to get them back in shape, maybe they weren't too bad...
I have been working with Tilley burners since 1965 and I must have cleaned out hundreds of them. Destroyed a few in the early years as well. You learn the hard way I guess. There is little to be gained by dismantling a Tilley burner. Now I shove the complete burner on a Primus stove and with the aid of a blow lamp get the whole thing dull red and then quench in cold water. Sometimes then the mixing dome will unscrew and having a look inside to see the main casting is clear is useful and you can clean out the inside of the dome. Sometimes the nozzle can be unscrewed also BUT be aware that older burners can be different and the nozzle unscrews upwards. There is often a hint of the thread visible on these and you do NOT try to unscrew it. The nozzle on these is a single piece running the full length of the burner and has the venturi tube screwed into it but the real rerason you leave these in is because the three air tubes are screwed directly into the nozzle piece and you can destroy the burner if those threads are burnt. So heat and quench. Gently unscrew what comes out easily but not the air tubes and then brush out the tubes. A little copper slip on the dome threads will seal that in on reassembly and you are good to go. Tilley burners die of old age and you need to be aware that unscrewing stuff can be the death knell. ::Neil::
What I found works well when it comes to cleaning air tubes is brushes used to clean gun barrels! I have a kit I bought in Walmart for cleaning guns. This works better than pipe cleaners since the brushes are stiffer. I've used this method for years and find it works very well on those air tubes.
