I am sure this is in the site somewhere but all I find is problems on no fuel. My problem is just the opposite. Rebuilt lamp a few months ago, lit ran perfectly. After sitting decided to run it again. Now kero pours out of the top and catches on fire. Fuel running everywhere. Prelit with alcohol as before, even did twice. Still pours raw fuel out everywhere. Fire hazard! Replaced vaporizer with a new Tilley. Same problem. Pumped up until tit was flush. Yes it actually works. Any suggestions? Or what to check. Thanks Robert
@Rosims If liquid fuel is pouring out the top of you vapouriser (and not from elsewhere), it means the fuel has not been vapourised. 1. Are you preheating for 2 minutes? 2. Are you giving it only 15 to 20 pumps from an unpressurised tank at the lighting stage? Tony
Thanks for the refresher Tony. I think I may have had too much pressure to start with. I’ll try again and pay more attention to how long to let it preheat.
Hi Robert, With my Tilleys, I generally follow this procedure. (You'll also find YouTube videos on the subject but some of them are less than helpful.) 1. Start with the tank unpressurised with 3/4 tank of fuel - paraffin (also called kerosene) 2. Use the Tilley pre-heater and leave it in position around the vaporiser for 2 minutes 3. After 2 minutes give the pump a few pumps strokes until you see the mantle start to illuminate as the paraffin vapour ignites. If you pump too much or too soon the fuel can cool the vaporiser and the lamp won't light. 4. As the flames of the pre-heater die out, begin pumping until the mantle glows with a brilliant white light. Depending on the model, count the number of pumps and stop at 50. This is less of an issue with the Tilley Guardsman X246 but Tilley X246B's should not be over-pressurised as the bottom of the tank (sometimes called font or fount) can expand or 'balloon' due to the pressure! When you get it working, and I'm sure you will, you should post some pictures. Regards Colin
Thanks everyone for refreshing my memory. I did get it going fine but the valve was leaking where it goes in the tank. I have some good deals now and will replace them. I was putting too much pressure before lighting. I guess that’s what happens when you are used to Coleman’s.
Not to worry, you're not the first to make that mistake and I dare say that you won't be the last. Vapalux / BiAladdin don't like a lot of pressure to start with either. The important thing is that you got there in the end. Well done. Henry.
Peerless mantles are awesome and so easy to fit. I sometimes retro-fit Butterfly mantles by undoing the bottom seam and using a freezer bag tie to fasten it too the spigot. They work quite well I've found but it does involve a bit of fiddling around... it's cheap though... 10x butterfly mantles for a couple of quid on eBay!
I've got a similar problem. I've tried three times but my 246 won't light up. It was working fine and I just tried lighting it up after 8 months. The kero is not vapourizing , its coming out the nozzle as a liquid not a vapour. Have tried heating the vap tube with metho but its not enough heat ? Does metho deteriorate over time ? It has a new vapourizer tube fitted and new seals .
@Handi-man , the words "new vapouriser" always make me cringe. Often that is where the problem lays. Your problem sounds more like not enough preheating. A two minute preheat is two minutes like this, Two minutes like this is not a preheat. Give the preheater a full soak in the metho. Have it dripping with metho, wipe the excess off the bottom and let it preheat until just before the the flame comes away from the mantle. If you are doing it in the wind you should probably automatically preheat twice.
Another tip ... once I saw a small Chinese fellow light a butterfly type clone lamp on a fishing boat presumably running on diesel oil from the engine .. he wrapped on old discarded towel cloth around the top of the lamp just to I suppose confine the heat a bit and kept a close watch on it as the lighted preheated start did its stuff.. after about 60 secs ..cloth comes off... the lamp is a bit toasty no doubt ... woosh off it went.... lighted just fine after that time..so if the weather is a bit cold or damp I do this ...and keep a close watch I have an old towel ... works every time.... saves time as well
Thanks for the replies. I have burnt up three mantles so far, they go black and disintegrate into ashes ! The kero flames just destroy the mantles. Have been doing long burns with the metho but to no good result. I might have a leak somewhere that makes the vapourizer run a rich mixture The vapourizer is a Nth Ireland one with the brass knurled section . The raw kero coming out of the nozzle is a very thin stream. The chimney area is black with soot now. There isn't any hissing sound at all.... as I pop open the cock, raw kero flames engulf the mantle
@Handi-man , have you checked the burner for wasp nests? I have been getting a few the last few weeks.
I would check on the pressure ... do a dunk test , take off hood top , glass off, leave cage on.. It does not matter if fuel is left in the font/tank ... preferably not though ... stop cock to off and pressurise... immerse in water and look for tell tale bubbles from the tank, top of pump , vapourizer seal ... any indicate loss of pressure issues and must be investigated .. a good tilley x246 should really give a good fuel jet mist upwards the stronger the better .. I would say at least 36 " height plus and/or may be more.. Could be you need new seals to sort this. Is the small fuel tube passing from the bottom of the tank clean and free from obstructions crud etc,,, wire down to clean , Is small filter clean and shewing air space through the guaze , ensure tank clean.. swirl some nuts around to dispel any dirt/ crud etc .. all will help to ensure good flow. If there is a weak spurt of fuel out of the vapourizer. then its not getting the pressure to power out of that fine top vapouriser hole via the top pricker and you will have more liquid than fuel mist. Check the burner air holes exits for obstructions .. I use a chain saw / round file to enlarge holes and round off jagged edges . I like to be able to spin the top where the vapourizer rests on the spigot... I keep the top of the vapourizer area clean, somes use wire wool or again file again good luck m8tey you can sort this
Ok I have made some progress . Yes the burner was clogged ....silly me. I cleaned the burner and that has helped a lot .The burner tube was blocked with gunk. I am still having problems though. It is lighting now ( weakly ) but it is still flaming . I will do what Alby suggested , a leak test in the sink.
@Handi-man Do you know where the gunk came from? It may be useful to track down where this gunk originated, if it came from the tank or the fuel, flush the tank and all the parts and when clean, refill with clean fuel preheat for at least 2 minutes and light. Cheers Pete
Ok it's running fine now. I had another look at the burner and there was some more gunk I didn't see first time. The gunk was inside the three radial arms ( wasp nest I think ) , these three arms must be important to keep them clean. Did the bubble test in the sink and no bubbles anywhere , so the seals are all OK . Mike
The three arms allow air to be drawn into the burner head to mix with the fuel vapour and create the correct burn, restrict the air and the flame will burn orange. Good to know its a happy lamp again. Enjoy
Well done Mike... M8tey , spiders, wasps and flying bugs like to explore and inhabit the holes... I had one hood from a 246b with a spiders nest blocking a tube , I have 3 x 246 Bs , 3 x Guardsmen and 1 x 246 A .. you get to know a bit... fettling them all .. problems that can be 1.Easily fettled, 2. Exploratory fettling involving some physical/ mechanical work 3. and MMMM ..what/ why the Ferk is that going on ? ... If your lamp parts are good and the vapourizer is fine all problems can be sorted ... with viton seals used ... My latest revelation is spinning a wire up a " time expired " vapourizer that refuses to release its carbon despite heat and quench method. Using a mini dremmel drill although one with reverse gear is even better.. Some Vaps are gone though and worn ...peening the hole with blows from a nail punch 1/8 ins and small hammer is hopefull.. so good luck ..
