Hi, Well I joined the ranks of Tilley ownership a week ago.... one X-246-B and a 1960's BR model. Well it had to Happen, I found another X-246-B looking sorry for its self at a local boot fair. I'm having issues removing the pump (probably the wrong name, sorry).... the outer body is stuck fast and I cant shift it! Any suggestions on getting this out please?? I'm also looking for a good colour match to the original gold paint if anyone has any suggestions ? Thanks Again.... Andy
You could try setting the tank on it's side and putting penetrating oil around the top of the pump barrel where it screws into the tank and then let it sit overnight and then try tightening the pump a touch as that can sometimes frees it.
Hi Jeff, Its been soaking since yesterday lunchtime... I have even used 2 x securing rings locked off on each other but no joy. Ill keep up with the WD40 :-) Thanks Andy
Andy, what i try normarly, is pick a piece off sandpaper, turn it around sand site on top turn it round the pump part en carefuf grip it with a vicegrip en try. and over squeeze succes
Your a Wise Man ==== Plus a goodly application of WD40 :-) So, any thoughts on the best match of paint for the refurbishment ??? Many thanks Both
Colour wise, if it was a gold model, what @ROBBO55 says. If you wanted a change, you could use a standard red - always a classic look for a Tilley 246b. Either way, happy fettling!
@A Hendrikx A new tip learned today. Many thanks. @Andy-H The x246b is as good a lamp as any to cut your teeth on. Good luck with the restoration, can't wait to see the pictures. Regards Jeremy
Nice result with the pump. I think it looked as if it had been fitted cross threaded so you were very lucky to get it out. I suggest you look very carefully at the threads in the brass - if they look "bent" then it will try to do the same next time. Better to be aware of it and correct the issue if you can but otherwise when refitting it don't tighten it further if it should start to kick off to the side and "bind". If it has done it once it will want to do it again - cross threaded ones always do.
Good tho hear it was a succes!! @X246A my big hobby passion is repairing old machines cars tractors standing engines, then you learn from these techniques to get things loose,who have been detained for more than 50 years
Evening All... OK the rubber seal pack has arrived today so ill be getting the 1976 lamp up and running soon. The 1971 will need more work as the chrome work has totally gone (see pic) Ill remove as much as i can but will probably need to paint it (maybe silver exhaust paint to handle the heat?) Still thinking about the colour..... but no rush :-) O and the lady i got this 71 Tilley from has a few more to clear out so watch this space :-)
Andy If you take it back to the brass, use an etch primer before the final paint coat. It doesn’t need to be heat proof paint, but I use automotive car paint or heat proof paint because the paint cures hard making it robust against fuel spills. Choice of colour is up to you. With car enamel in rattle cans you have a wide variety available (I buy them when they are “on special”). I bake my car enamel at 65°C for an hour to hasten the curing. WARNING: don’t do this in the kitchen oven while your partner is home... Cheers Tony @Andy-H
I don't know if i should start a new thread or stick this here... its for the same lamp so here goes ... How to service a Cock 777 ? OK to start with I have just worked out the differences between service packs.... correct one now on order lol I have changed the seals that i could but I didn't have any 155 washers so I pressured the lamp up and left it while i started a fight with the mantle (score so far mantle-one me-zero) When I returned the vaporiser was weeping at the tip... I know the washer i need to change but i cant see how to get to it, it all looks sealed ? Any suggestions please ?
Andy Here is a link to the parts of a Tilley X246B: https://www.base-camp.co.uk/exploded views/Tilley/SP1.jpg You can see how they come apart. Tony @Andy-H
I did find that, so will the filter cup unscrew from the body and the spring come out the bottom ?? I dont want to force it and bugger it up lol
Andy Be careful with those aluminium parts. Wrap in a leather patch or similar before gripping with tools. Tony
well i would of never thought that was a separate part! It came off but killed the spring, not a problem as I ordered a kit with 2 x 610 springs and 2 of the square seals with the round nipple that i assume located in the spring? The original seal was crumbling but to be honest it looks huge and nothing like the small square ones i just ordered ??? is there another type of seal that ive missed ??? thanks again Andy
Finally got the old seal out... it was as hard as stone lol Its not looking like the 155 seal I've ordered... hope it still works ?
Yes, but that valve is redundant in a kerosene lamp and fails open anyway so usually there's nothing to do. You might need to change the gland seal(s) if there's a leak from there. If this is an X246B (no hyphens!) then the conical knob simply pulls off. You need to know that there are two versions of the 498 seals kit. The 'old' 498 kit contains simple circular 155 seals and is correct for just about every Tilley except the X246B. The 'new' or 'late' 498 kit contains the later, shaped NRV seal only found on the X246B lantern. Hope that helps...
Hey @Andy-H. That’s not like any seal that l’ve seen before. Me thinks that this is a replacement or repair attempt using whatever at hand. The proper kit you’ve ordered will, should, have all the correct parts. Cheers Pete
I was wondering if it was from this kit i found on e-bay? 2 funny looking seals on the far right of the pic It was such a tight fit I doubt it ever moved in the 1st place!
Those seals are for the NRV in an X246B pump so that's a 'new' 498 kit. Having said that, the equivalent 155 seals are to the south-west of them in the pic so that kit is actually pretty 'universal' will do most Tilley lanterns from the year dot...