@Richiep Couple of things to do for a successful running lamp. Take the whole lamp (except for the burner air tubes) apart and clean everything. Replace ALL the seals and washers, don't skimp they are cheap, Clean the mating surfaces where rubber meets metal, no lumps or crud and shiny bright. Take off the vapouriser tube and carefully pull out the rod and don't lose the spring, then clean the rod with very fine wet and dry or wire wool and be very careful not to touch the needle tip. When you put it back dont force it, shake the tube to allow the rod to fall back into place as there is a little restriction near the inside top of the tube and you dont want to bend that very fine tip. Get plain old vinegar and somehow (I use an old blunt syringe) get the vinegar inside the tube before soaking it in vinegar overnight. then shake out the tube and bang it on a cloth to get any carbon out. flush with water and allow to dry flush out the tank with clean paraffin and do this a few times to get any crud out. (you can re use the paraffin by straining thru paper coffee filters. oil the new pump leather with 3 in 1 or if you have none, olive oil. Remember that most of the screw in parts should only be done up snug, and only finger tight to stop leaks Blow out and poke out the burner tubes and dont disassemble if possible. fit new mantle and burn in open fuel knob and dont pressurise the tank preheat tighten pump assembly then pump before meths dies out, lamp will light. leave to heat up (30 secs), the give about 30 to 40 pumps to achieve full brightness. Run the lamp for a few hours so it settles down If you have problems with the burn and have no leaks, and everything turns and pumps smoothly then your vap tube may need replacing as its worn out. about 20 to 30 quid but its so worth it.
Thanks again to you all I’m like a sponge loving it. Well the bit that has the little filter, had dropped off in the bottom so I was trying to get the spring & plunger assembled, then thanks to plantpot put the pictures on I could see there was something not quite right. Got the filter out with some long nose pliers & put that all back which was great that made me feel that bit was right. That control is still not quite right I feel. There are a few holes in the mantal, where do I buy them? Yes & the vapouriser as well?
Yes, there should Definitely be a washer there ( vapouriser washer 153) (@Richiep check your messages)
Well I’ve been polishing like made still a bit to do but she’s coming on, I would just like to say BIG thank you to you all for helping me to get this nearly right.
@Richiep Great job. Believe me, I have a Optimus 200 from the 1930's that I struggled with for damn near 10 years trying to get it to light! This was back in my early days when I was dumb as sh.. about kerosene pressure lanterns (still not much improvement lol)! Not knowing anything about them and no CPL Site, and for that matter no internet (!) I filled it with gasoline!!! For months, I was ashamed to go outside, singed my hair and "removed" my eyebrows! Always ask questions, lots of them. Don't just decide I'll do this or I'll try that. It doesn't work that way. This is a wonderful hobby, with a lot of great people who know their stuff when it comes to these lanterns and everyone is more that willing to help.
@Richiep Congratulations you’ve done a grand job, she looks great. The money shot confirms a successful operational fettle, well done. Cheers Pete
Thanks, I think I’m hooked as I’m now bidding on a Tilley heater R1 I might be going in too deep but here goes. Thank you all again.
@Richiep We all started similarly. It’s the excitement of the find then the restoration. There is heaps of friendly knowledge on this forum to answer your questions. Go for it mate, the lampie bug bites deep ..... resistance is useless. Cheers Pete
@Richiep I think some tilley radiators had asbestos mantles... If it has an asbestos mantle, remove it underwater to prevent you breathing in any potentially harmful dust and replace with a metal one from juliands, or basecamp. Some lamps have old asbestos pre heater wicks, treat these the same and replace with glass fibre or kevlar wicks. (you can't be too careful around asbestos)
thanks for the advice i missed out on the heater but won a 246 to keep this one company lol yes loved it, all i'm not finished as i've still got the cage to clean up & spray. any thoughts on clear lacquer spray the base, ie has anyone tried it & is it worth it? will it stay on the brass? once ive finished polishing it.
@Richiep Clear lacquer works on the brass. You will need a high temp paint for your cage and handle. Don't try to paint the hood, nothing at all works with the extremes of temperature at that point. Others have tried, and failed.
I've not found that - ordinary rattle-can car body paint from Halfrauds / motor factors seems to work just fine. You're just stoving it on, in effect...
@David Shouksmith Thanks David, I have only used VHT paint on the cages, but if ordinary rattlecan car paint works its great, will save a few bob and option for more colours too.
Halfords very high temperature engine gloss worked worked fine for me on the cage. Thought it would be ok on the hood, wrong, the hood must get to a higher temperature than a running engine.
Thanks, im not doing the hood going to leave that, i've got a gold ish colour to do the cage but i should of looked about to see what colour its should be does anyone have what it should be? now i'm in stand off mode now lol as i don't want to get it wrong
Take a look in the reference gallery for a colour match, but I am sure they originally painted the cage with the same gold paint used on the fount. I have seen a paint "plasticote brass," that some use, but I am sure there's an "official" paint people use. (can't remember the gold colour at the mo) On a personal note as you have polished the brass fount, use any colour you want. I actually "sanded" my cage with scotchbrite to remove the rust and polished the steel to a nickel like finish and it looked amazing, but after a few firings discoloured so I ended up with VHT silver and it works well with the brass (which is not slightly aged) IMO with no discoloration. This lamp has been working for many hours, many times over a long period so the paint is wearing well. The spirit cup is from another lamp and not a tilley item. Click on the images for full size.