I'd properly rounded off the head on the NRV in the pump tube so no recourse but to remove the tube using a blow torch. On advice I'd filled the tank 2/3rds full with water but was probably too much as the tube wouldn't budge. Emptied out so just under 1/2 was left and tube came out a lot easier. I refitted the pump handle after removing the leather to make extraction easier. There was a lot of solder left in the tank so whoever soldered the tube must have used a lot of it. The NRV looks quite corroded and currently has some penetrating oil on it. Hopefully won't have to drill it out!
There's a good chance the valve will come apart before it unscrews from the bottom of the pump tube but it will give you the option of using an easy-out stud extractor rather than drilling.
Here I will say you are lucky. There is a strengthening ring soldered on the inside of the tank around the pump tube. I can see it still sitting on the inside of the tank in your photo. Put the pump tube in place before you apply any heat as is possible it could detach and there is no way of putting it back again. Don't ask how I know.
Its unfortunate that you had rounded off the nrv head. Now that you've got the pump tube removed from the fount, at least the lower end of the nrv is accessible. You might want to gently heat/cool-cycle the pump tube end in the hope that the nrv might ease up a little. If its corroded, it might just break off while you're trying to unscrew it...as Henry cautioned. If you manage to remove it somehow, are you going to re-build and re-use the nrv or just replace with a spare(if available)?
Thank you for all the advice. This NRV removal business is more an art than a science! No joy with removing it via pliers so desoldered the end of the tube (in for a penny). The end is not a thin lid like I've seen on the BernieDawg YouTube video but a proper thick cap. Solid construction! There are even holes at the end of the tube for the solder to go in and a channel for the solder to run through on the end cap. Consequently even though the bottom cap would rotate, I couldn't pull it off. I had to stick the heavy duty NRV removal tool (basically a thick metal rod with a slot on the end) down the pump tube and give a couple of good whacks with a hammer before it popped off. Anyway I drilled through the NRV, left it soaking in penetrating oil overnight before using a cheap screw extractor and it's finally out. The relief is palpable. I didn't think it would ever come out! I also rescued a lot of solder from inside the font and will take the opportunity to give the interior a good clean. A lot of brown particulate residue was in it. I have a couple of replacement NRV valves from Base Camp so will be fitting one when it's all back together again.
Well done and what a relief. Top marks for your tenacity. I’m looking forward to your pictures of the first light up. Cheers Pete
Are you sure they are the correct ones? The NRV for the 1050 is a larger diameter than the 'normal' one.
Yes, Mike was aware of the size difference and he sent me the correct ones. I've just tried it and it fits.
Got it all back together again. Had to wait for some Weller 60/40 solder to arrive as I only had silver lead free stuff. The end cap needed some effort to get back on. I used too much force and caused hairline crack in the tube. I sealed this with some solder as I was soldering back the bottom. Resoldering the tube back to the font took a couple of tries as the angle was initially too horizontal and I could not screw in the NRV as it was hitting the fuel intake tube in the center of the font. I repositioned it probably too vertical but its fine. Reassembled, cleaned and polished and it runs very well now with no fluid in the pump tube. Thanks all.
Epic! @Wai you must be feeling pleased - the result looks very nice. A stylish lantern now in great working condition...
@Wai Great work. I’ve learned that the chunkier non-return valve is likely to be a fit for a Primus 77 stove and that Base Camp stock it. Useful to know. That’s true of the Primus 77 pump tube too. John
I think Mike said as much when I asked him for the replacements. Thanks for confirming John. The replacement NRV's are a pretty penny though! I've been told that parts for these old lamps have more or less disappeared, as of late. Very glad that the Coleman R55 generator is still available, sort of, much as I'd like an original 1051 burner. Hopefully I'll only ever need to replace the rubber part.
I didn't know that about the Primus 77. If I ever manage to find one, I'll keep that in mind. As long as you use a lead washer under the NRV, there's a good chance that it can be removed again without damage. A lot of Primus stuff never had a lead washer under the NRV, but I usually fit one to make it easier in the future.
