My latest addition is this Veritas bowl heater. Like most of the others it is missing the wire guard but otherwise is in fine cosmetic condition with original paint and a good decal. It isn't without issues though. It has apparently been unlit for 18 years and unfortunately it has proved difficult to fire up without flaring. I still haven't got blue flames within the mantle so I think the jet needs some attention. The vaporiser wouldn't lift off the cleaning needle to inspect or decarb and the control valve became harder to turn as it heated up. If I manage to get better burn results I'll add additional photos at a later stage.
I mentioned earlier that I couldn't lift the vapouriser off the cleaning needle. It turned out to be a heavy build up of carbon inside that was preventing the triangular part of the cleaning needle passing through. In a way that helped because by holding the cleaning needle in the carbon build up I was able to unscrew it and then lift the needle out of the top of the vapouriser tube. Then the vapouriser tube itself could be removed and cleaned.
I tried a quick burn test and the preheat was certainly a lot faster but the issue of being unable to get flames within the mantle remained. I inspected the jet size and it appeared larger than it should be. I could get a 0.4mm drill through it. So I removed the jet and peened the hole closed using some jewellery making tools called dappers. I then drilled a new jet hole using my smallest drill of 0.3mm. The jet hole would now appear to be at more of an angle but worse the problem of flames outside the mantle remains despite the smaller jet size. At this point I feel I've done what I can and I'm just going to have to hope that one day I come across a better vapouriser and jet. Unlikely but you never know.
That's a shame, is it possible to peen the jet just a fraction to reduce the opening, probably take some trial and error, didn't i see where someone inserted a hyperdermic needle into a jet to repair it. Also what about winding some soft copper wire around the pricker stem to form a spring like coil to give a slight restriction to the flow and improve the heat transfer to the paraffin as it travels up the vaporiser.
@rayw I could definitely give the jet peening another go and attempt to not close it completely. I really like the wire idea, many vapourisers have a brass coil. However I'm not sure there's space inside the tube, I'll have to investigate. I appreciate the ideas. Rob.
Maybe daft question - are you sure no fuel is getting past the outside of the jet ? (loose threads). Some of us have had sucess putting a little copper grease in the threads. Also I have noticed that varoius heaters sometimes like to run at a slightly lower pressure than their brighter counterparts.
@Fireexit1 not daft at all, I've had that issue with a few, especially Petromax lanterns. The pressure thing is interesting some say high, some disagree. I'll experiment. Thanks for the ideas.
Well I have to laugh at my efforts. Several hours work for a net result of zero difference. I'm wondering if the removal of the carbon negated any reduction in jet size. I will say that for something that isn't actually working as designed it is still a very good heater.
Well if it heats well and does not have a smell of unburnt paraffin - then I guess it works ! It would be interesting to compare it to others in terms of flaring
Great pics! Still looks to be pretty warm and as for all that carbon that came out it has been well loved but also well looked after Regards pb
Most heaters that I have come across are no more than the equivalent of a 300cp lamp. That means a jet size of 0.2mm or less.
Thanks Nils. I'll need to have a rethink. @presscall what size jet did the needle give you John? Rob.
It would appear you can buy sets of needles intended to clear 3D printer jets sized from 0.15mm increasing in 0.05mm increments. Useful for judging the size of a jet.
For that stove vapouriser a 0.26mm bore (26-gauge hypodermic needle) - near enough to the ideal 0.23mm, but latterly my supplies are stubby needles without points intended for laboratory dispensation of liquids rather than injections. Inexpensive and a wide range of sizes, some with bores akin to lamp jet orifices.
@presscall I had just posted a personal message on this subject when I saw this reply which answers several of my questions. I was thinking 27 gauge but I'll order some 26 gauge as well for stove use. Rob.
That vapouriser looks to be the same as those used on Thermidor lanterns Thermidor If this is the case, Primus jet 6145 (for models 1001, 1014, 1020 and some others) and available from Optimus Spares Price List has a compatible thread and should work a treat, I used one with great success on my Thermidor lantern. I did however have to shorten the threads by 2 / 2.5ish mm so that it would screw in fully. Because the Primus jet is taller, it will sit higher up in the manifold which may affect the amount of air drawn in for a good fuel/air mixture To counteract any negative effect, I raised the burner as far as possible by adjusting the nuts at the bottom of the air tubes.
@Henry Plews this could well be great news Henry as the Veritas is based on a Thermidor 303 lantern. I will give Base Camp a call in the morning. Thank you. Rob.
@Henry Plews well Henry I'm claiming partial success. The Primus 6145 jet I received was considerably different in shape to both the original jet and the 6145 you posted but just like the one you posted the thread needed shortening to fully screw down. At some point I bent the pricking wire and despite my care during an attempt to straighten it, it snapped. However I have now got, for the first time, some clear blue flames within the mantle. I'm still getting a small amount of flame escaping the mantle but it is better than it was.
@Robert Radcliffe although better, I had hoped the improvement would've been greater. It's a shame about the broken cleaning needle, I can understand why you feel your success is only partial.
@Henry Plews @JEFF JOHNSON yes some progress Jeff but as Henry said not what was hoped for. The heater has other issues that might be contributing. I'm going to have to remove the valve spindle to find out why it's seizing up and to check the cone on the spindle end. There seems to be very little control of the flow and it can be hard to completely turn off.
Nice heater and great job done! Don't give up! This heater type is on wish list (as many others ) Cheers, Francisc
