As Found All the steel components were rusted and painted with red lead. Details: The fount was polished brass with a steel base plate. Inside the fount the base was in very good condition. The font was stamped: VERITAS / PAT APPLIED FOR / MADE IN ENGLAND There was no sign of a decal. The globe frame was steel and date stamped 2 52 (February 1952). I couldn’t ascertain if the globe frame was originally plated or painted. I painted it in high temp “Aluminium”. The hood is in two parts and secured with two screws, the cap is green enameled Steel and the lower section was nickel plated steel. There is no inner hood component. The collar is bare brass and stamped “A”. The control valve is Stamped “A”. There is a brass gauze filter in the fount, under the control valve. The control valve is sealed to the fount with a red fibre washer. The globe frame is secured with a steel bolt. The pump is bare brass with a steel shaft. The fuel cap is bare brass. The spirit cup is steel. The vapouriser is brass with a steel hex retaining nut. The air tube and mixing tube is bare brass. I replaced all the seals. I had to make new Viton seals for the shutoff shaft (4.7mm ID x 9mm OD x 6mm) and the pricker control shaft (3mm ID x 7mm OD x 3mm). The original bail was missing. The one shown is a reproduction based on an original I have. Although the Fount was originally polished brass I decided to paint the fount with epoxy enamel (Dulux Brunswick Green, a good match based on an original I have).
Great job, Martin. The state your Veritas lantern was in when you found it looks like many that we see here in Australia — often very heavily weathered. A fine restoration indeed. Tony
As you know mate I'm a Tilley man and don't usually look at to many other lamps. Just every now and then, one will stand out, and I believe you have done a magnificent job. Congratulations mate. I would feel very happy with myself if I was you.
Great work Martin, Veritas lanterns are very cool, in fact I’m working on the same model now, I think mine maybe a tad worse, the fuel pick up and valve is soldered to the font, Ive been cleaning bits up to see if it’s worth it. I’ll be giving it the dunk test soon that will help me out as to what I need, I’ve restored a number of these lanterns and have myth busted their bad reputation as poor performers.
@Tony Press @JEFF JOHNSON @Buggerlugs @pete sav @Darryl Durdin Thanks gentleman for the positive comments. I'm pleased with the final result. It's a bright lantern but does take a lot of preheating . Tony, I think you're right, we don't see too many in good condition. I have four, one in good original condition the others like this one. Darryl, good luck with your project, I hope the dunk test gives a positive result. They do perform well once they heat up.
@ROBBO55 Your lantern has come up a treat and I think the red lead paint that was on it when found probably helped preserve it a bit. Your detailed post and images will help further discussion on Veritas lanterns. Clearly this model version also has the unusual horizontal placed pump which was discussed in a thread a while ago. Veritas 350 Lantern Differences The jury is still out on what this means though! @Darryl Durdin
@ROBBO55 , I have found when dealing with the Veritas lanterns Long peerless mantle, once Burt in it better pre heats the generator turning the fuel to vapour, also a long pre heat from the start. I fill the meth bowl to the brim, let it burn up until nearly gone, works the same on my heater.hours of fun, that sun in a jar.
Iain, I didn't even notice that detail. Thanks for pointing it out and the additional information. Thanks Darryl, I'll give them a try. Thanks Andrew
