As above, can anyone tell me the easiest way to reattach the 930 spirit cup please, i haven't really done any soldering yet, is there a resin or something that i could use or wouldn't that take the heat? Thanks.
On that lamp I suspect it will get far too hot for any adhesive to hold. 930s run very hot and the tank gets too hot to hold after a while. Designed that way so not a problem generally but I suspect that solder at that level by the generator will be the only way. ::Neil::
Ok thanks Neil, would it be a bad idea if i drilled a few holes and sort of plug weld/soldered from the underneath, i'm not sure if i'm capable but an invisible repair would be good if possible.
I wouldn't make any holes if it can be avoided. To see the problem in a few pictures would be worth a lot. Any chance? It sounds like the best idea here is to clean the mating faces very well to clean metal (assume brass?) then to tin them with solder. This is just heating them up and letting the tin/lead/flux cover the bare metal as a "film". Do this on both parts then leave to cool. Joining them is just to put the two pieces together in correct alignment and heat them both until the solder melts. The two solder faces will fuse together. Leave to cool and job done. Maybe I misunderstand and there is some reason a "plug" approach is needed...or?
@JonD Thanks Jon, that doesn't sound to bad, maybe i could use a soldering iron to heat up and remove any visible leakage if needed, The cage is steel and i think the base of the spirit cup is plated brass, the rest of it is steel,
That is a perfect case for it. You need to clean that joint semi circle down to bare metal. Some fine emery cloth wound around a suitable mandrel will do that. For tinning you could use a soldering iron if you have one - if electrical it would need to be 100 Watts or so or it won't have enough output to reach needed temperature on the base plate. Electrical solder wire with flux included would be the best to use here. Then set the preheating dish in place on the base plate, itself sitting on some heat proof insulating material. Heat the whole assembly with a cooks blow torch or such until the solder melts. If you don't have a soldering iron tinning can be done by the blowlamp method. Heat gently until feeding the solder wire on to the work melts into a puddle. Don't apply heat directly with the blowlamp while doing this step as the flux will burn away. You want the flux to stay around to help in step 2 - the reflow.
Why not look around for a metal workshop where you live to see if they can help you spot weld it back. It would be quite odd if you can not find a company with that equipment near you. I spot welded one burner back on an Origo stove at my work once. Michael
@JonD Thanks again for the advice, do you mean just tin the base of the spirit cup? i also have two stoves, both of which are missing a leg so if i'm successful with the spirit cup it may give me more confidence to turn them into tripods again, @cmb56 I know a welder but don't think he has got a spot welder, more mig/gas but if i am a total failure with soldering i may need to try and find one, @Sellig33 Thanks, i need to learn to solder, i've just steered clear of it so far due to lack of confidence.
@MG It is always best to tin both sides if possible. If you don't then the whole thing will fall apart soon afterwards since it is only the flux and a few microscopic spots of solder holding it together. By tinning both halves you have made good contact solder<>metal. When you reflow it in the final position it then joins solder<>solder. Try it for practice on some old bits of tin plate such as a tobacco tin. You will soon get the hang of it. You didn't mention whether you have a soldering iron or not.
@JonD Ah i see now, yes that makes sense, i don't think my newish soldering iron will do the job as its only 5-48w but i can buy a higher wattage one if needed as they seem quite cheap on ebay? i've got a chefs torch and a larger blow torch too.
I really doubt that soldering would work. It gets seriously hot there when the lantern is running. Brazing would work, of course, but that would probably discolour the area.
I think it was spot-welded originally. But not too many shops would have such equipment. Usually found on larger fabrication or manufacturing facilities for sheet metal jointing. If you find one, that'll be great. Otherwise, no real harm soldering it and see if it holds.
I have repaired a few of these. I brazed a flat piece of metal long enough to reach the center screw to the bottom of the spirit cup. I then slotted the metal where the screw goes through for some wiggle room or adjustment. I made a small arch it the metal tab between the screw hole and the bottom of the cup to create downwards pressure at the cup to keep it tight. I rounded off the corners of the tab by the screw, shined it up, and they turn out very nice. Same concept that petromax uses on their cups except this is a little more robust. This is a petromax example.
Old thread but it caught my eye thanks ro @Kero Pyro ‘s solution, useful in the light of Christer’s observations Not just the fact that a 930 gets hot enough to potentially melt solder at that point, the heat of the burning priming fluid would already have melted it. Which is why I’d to use hard solder (silbraze) to construct the priming cup of my Bialaddin bowl fire. And yes, the heat of sibrazing would discolour an area but could be polished out. John
