Couldn't resist fettling a Tilley. This was a cheapo really and I'm not going to spend a lot on it. 246B Feb 1967. Some aluminum parts so it is really just to gain experience. Had to drill out and snap the cage nut off.
Ah that one - can be an awkward one to undo. Usually needs grips and can easily get mangled up in the process. The main thing to check is the vapouriser. That is probably worth more than the whole lamp if it's a good one.
Clean the glass, fille her up, pump, at see what happends If you het a nice spray of kerosene, fit or mount a mantle and light it.
Just a thought here .. you probably are aware .. but if you can take off the top and glass , turn it upside down and anything else .. Ck + VP .. so its you and the nut ..., grip the nut firm... if you can attach a set of locking spring clamp pliers... hold firm say in bench vice if you have one .. you can and spin the tank by hand to undo ,, consider a little heat/ and releasing agent... rather that muscling a pair of vice grips or pump pliers .. which may chew the nut for you . I hope you show that nut who is the boss !!.
Slow and steady and you might have a nut, penetrene or (Auto trans fluid & 50/50 acetone) & soak a day or 2, if it still wont move then gentle heat remember there are solder joints and wrap a bit of leather so jaws don't mangle nut (same with pumps and vaporisers)
I had a frame nut that was so badly corroded it cracked into three pieces when I tried to unscrew it... but these can be found relatively cheaply.
All good guys. I've got the nut sorted out already. New one will be brass this time. Not much one can't do with a lathe.
I've decided that since the lamp is 1967 and most of the plating on the fount has gone through. I can get away with cleaning up the fount with 00 steel wool and doing the gold paint thing. The frame is coming up nicely soaking in evaporust. The burner and preheater seem like they might be okay also.
See how the frame comes up in the Evaporust, but if it is still a bit rough I’ve then painted a few with high temp ’aluminium’ paint. It won’t clash with a gold font and the matt appearance covers up a lot.
Thanks @kero-scene that's a great idea. I was thinking of finding some stainless steel colour engine enamel to protect the frame but aluminium would be good also. I had wire buffed it before dunking it. It is a bit pitted so paint was always on the cards..
For those wanting to make their own replacement nut. It's a 1/2" BSB 26tpi thread. Not that common I guess.
Some progress made this week. Cleaned up and gold painted the fount. Also derusted the frame and painted it as suggested by @kero-scene. It doesn't look like the original steel would have but it is protected. BTW. Does anyone know how the heat shield is held up under the glass on the Tilleys? Mine was just sitting at the bottom of the vaporizer. Doesn't have a collar like the Kayen's.
@MozzoSA The insect screen on your lantern is upside down and makes it difficult to get the pre-heater onto the vapouriser. The insect screen is held in place with a spring wire (1.04mm diam.). Henry.