I posted the first lighting of my newly restored Vapalux 300X here:Nearly there ... The original cap was very tatty so I fitted it with a good quality repro. However, it just did not look right so I had a chat with a friend who runs his own sheet metal fabrication business. He has worked his magic, with the result shown below. This is now my favourite lamp. One question. When is the correct pressure reached on lamps with pressure button? Is it when the button is flush with the boss?
Your mate has done an excellent job on the top cap. It looks perfect! As for the pressure 'button' I imagine the correct pressure is when it's flush with the boss, that's how it is on a Tilley. ...and the overall effect is fantastic!
I wonder how those Vapalux pressure tits work compared with the Tilley ones. I've seen plenty of illustrations of the Tilley ones but never a Vapalux one. However, I suspect they're pretty much the same given that W&B made the tanks for Tilley until they fell-out spectacularly towards the end of the '30s. I'd guess the Bialaddin/Vapalux ones are better-engineered and may be more accurate and less leak-prone than the Tilley variety but I'm biased. Any further thoughts or information, folks..?
It looks very beautiful, @R100 Only thing is, the new brass hood would discolour once you fire up the lantern. I'm afraid there isn't really a common paint that would hold up to the heat as well as vitreous enamel. But then, even vitreous enamel would eventially degrade from the heat of kerosene-fueled lanterns. The only materials that could withstand such temperatures in oxidizing atmospheres without discoloration are ceramic-type refractory coatings but these are usually matte finishes, colour-limited and normally do not adhere very well to brass.
Hi Myn. Thanks for the comments. That hood had already been fired for around half an hour before I took the picture was taken. I'm sure it will discolour, but hopefully it will then match the other brass parts.
