Levi you can try it but it won’t hold it for long enough. I have seen many trials on CCF and none of them worked like the factory enamelware. If you want your reconditioned try IPE and they will bring it back to life but at $$$
@Levi Tomey I said earlier that I’d not found a paint to withstand the heat that a lantern vent is subjected to. I’m quite happy for others to try, though. But before you go and buy your paint, here is but one example, “Heat tested up to 2000°F” that does not withstand the dynamic heat of a fully functioning pressure lantern for more than a few burns. It’s matt black. The gloss colours aren’t rated as highly for temperature exposure. Tony
My SMP Milspec has an original painted hood probably to save the cost of enamelling thousands of lamps that were going to get abused. It hasn't seen much use, but as you'll see the paint is suffering already. I bet after a few nights the paint would be gone, rust has started forming in some areas too. You can see the comparison with a proper hood in the last picture.
If you say that's paint, Matt, I'll have to take your word for it. From here it looks like some sort of metal treatment - BZP (bright zinc passivated) or something like that anyway. But it only goes to show, as has been said already, a lamp hood is an extremely harsh environment and no paint known to Man (well, us, anyway!) is going to withstand the high temperatures involved...
I reckon, by now, if there was a commercially available paint available one of us would have found it by now. We’re a very diverse and eclectic mob and our fingers are everywhere throughout the world. So alas, I believe that there ain’t no paint that can consistently resist the heat of our pressure lanterns. Cheers Pete
In fact, I'd venture to suggest that if a suitable, truly high temperature, gloss paint hasn't been developed by now then one never will be...
@Levi Tomey You can nickel it but it's a steel tank and besides it would not be authentic. However, if that's of no concern sure, go for it! But I will say this, I don't think the lantern is worth that kind of expenditure. No offence, but this is a common lantern and you may want to think about it.
Sorry, you meant the top, I'm thinking of the font. Either way, it's expensive. I think I would look for a replacement top.
Chrome plating works well on hoods - Petromax lanterns are evidence of that but I'm not sure about nickel. Anyone know? As for painted hoods, almost everyone has seen it being tried many many times over with the same result - failure. As far as I'm aware there is no paint that will survive the temperatures needed which is why enamel, bare brass and chrome were used. What is also sad is that each attempt ruins yet another (usually) enamel hood. There is a massive amount of accumulated knowledge represented on this site which is why you can find answers to virtually any lantern related question that can be concieved with a high degree of confidence.
@Levi Tomey Ahem; what do you want ? If you want your lantern to look like it did when it left the factory, splash the cash and have it re-enamelled (porcelained). If you want a lantern with a hood that won't go rusty, then by all means have it nickel plated, it's your lantern and you can do to it what you will. After all, nickel will withstand a certain amount of prolonged heat. If you want a lantern with a hood that won't go rusty AND STAND THE TEST OF TIME, have it CHROME plated. Before you ask what's the difference, ask yourself "why are exhaust pipes on automobiles and motorcycles CHROME plated.
I thought chrome exhaust was to look nice and the rest was stainless steel. Also, I guess I’ll just have to have it re enameled, because I do want the top to be green. Also, is there anywhere that you can get it enameled other than in independence, Missouri.
There's a paint that's a little different from the usual by Jotun Paints. Colour is limited but it might just make it. Stated to withstand 1000degC continuously. That'll be higher than what you get on lantern hoods.
Ok, sweet. While I’m here. This lantern I just stripped of paint has what looks like cracks. Can anyone confirm?
Whoops! Here's the correct pdf @Tony Press . I've never tried that stuff before but looks promising except for the limited colour and non-glossy finish.
You mentioned you've just stripped the paint(green I supposed) and the bottom of the fount looks like that? Looks kind of metallic to me. Is that nickel or chrome plating having those crack lines? If so, then the plating's compromised and rust has already bled through.
I've had several 70s-80s Colemans get that vein-look under the paint. If in doubt, put in some fuel, pressurize and you'll know if it's a stress-crack soon enough.
I'm not sure if it's just oxidation following the path of least resistance under Coleman's unprimed paint, but 222/335/635 models seem to get it to varying extents. Check out what was under the paint of this narsty 4/80 Model 206 Coleman! Unlike yours, it was the bottom that was nice. Mike
Unprimed steel? - you kind of get the idea these modern Colemans weren't built to last. Not like the older stuff, anyway...
@David Shouksmith Boy, you are so right! Disposable society! Hell, turn'em out like hot cakes, they break make some more cheap shi$! Profit, profit, profit!! (Get off the soapbox, George... People don't want to hear it!)
I don't believe Coleman ever primed any of their lanterns--brass or steel--and the US went to steel long before Coleman Canada. Lower grade steel and poorer quality paint perhaps? Mike.
..Also the preparation before painting can be curtailed..degreasing and keying operations such as pickling?