Hi, I think I have a X246B lamp judging by the wire cage around the glass. The control cock is aluminium but the vids I've seen on youtube are for the earlier model.. How do i service this - well can i dismantle the control cock to replace washers and cup? Mine is leaking but the ali is welded to the body of the cock so i'm not sure if I get a spanner on it, it will just round off the 'nut' and I've broken it, can i actually get the knob shaft off the control valve at all. Is heating any good. Any help would be great!!! Thank you
That hex nut is indeed welded in so does not remove and you don't need to anyway to service this part. Just a new O ring seal for the gland is all you need to do. There is a spring loaded valve under the gauze filter and that filter cup unscrews if you want to fettle the valve. Mostly I wouldn't bother bcause that NRV is a redundant feature of a Tilley so if the fuel flow is OK you can leave that alone. These are aluminium cocks so you should not heat with a blow lamp. Ally has a lower melt point than brass and it's all too easy to damage the threads. Better to soak in an easing oil for a while to free things off. ::Neil::
Hi Adam and Welcome! Have you checked the little aluminium cup to see if there is an old washer/seal still in place? Sometimes they hide in there, it's not always easy to spot them? Hopefully it was the gland seal leaking and not the welded alu nut? Best of luck with the fettling of your Tilleys
@adamresearch Hey Adam... I used to live in Hastings, up on the hill near the castle. The control black knob pulls off the shaft. There should not be a set screw holding it in it literally pushes back on. Grip the shaft with molegrips using cloth, leather, or whatever (i use a small strip of sandpaper) to stop it marking and give extra grip and wiggle the knob off , may need another pair of grips for this. The knurled round part unscrews as in the photo above, revealing an O ring type washer on the shaft, this is what will have been leaking, nothing more. Replace this and while you are at it do all the other seals in the lamp as its so worth it. Get a kit for late model tilleys from here on fettlebox. If the old seal in the knurled bit is stuck in there from age, heat the part very gently with the flame from a lighter, softening the old rubber, nothing more, and pick it out using a pin or similar, dental picks are excelent for this. It must all be out for the new one to work and must be clean in there, no residue. When re assembling you should not need to do anything up other than firm fingertight, especially the knurled bit on the turning shaft. Best!
Hi Guys, thank you for all your replies which helped a lot! Does anyone know how good the replacement vapourisers from Taiwan are? I've replaced all seals on my tilley but even with a fair bit of pressure in the tank i'm getting almost no flow through the vapouriser nozzle. My previous tilley just worked endlessly month after month, used 10 hours a day. I lost the thing and bought a replacement but it's never run very well. The taiwan 5" vapouriser looks the part but almost no flow thro the nozzle. Does anyone know if i've lost another £27 on this lamp?! Anyone got a spare needle I could use? Thanks for your help guys.
2 vapourisers with the same problem. It could be bad luck? Have you checked the pickup tube inside the fount isn't blicked? Remove the valve and insert a wire or pipe cleaner, with the pump removed you should see the end of the wire come out of the pipe inside the fount.
I would check the fuel flow through the cock. Not a common fault but I have had two of those alloy cocks that passed almost no kero. I can't remember if I just replaced them or fettled them which probably involved a drill. ::Neil::
Thanks guys will give it a go, I have pumped up the tank without the control cock attached and there is pressure and some fuel comes out but i'm uncertain as to 'how much' is the right amount. Certainly makes a bit of a mess but that's not very quantifiable. Im not giving up on this lamp but decided to buy the petromax HK 500 as a er, back up, delivery anyday now. Will keep you posted on any tilley developments - have another go over the weekend.
In simple terms, if it's enough to make a mess, it's enough to run the lamp. If you think about it, a full tank of fuel is sufficient to run the lantern for around eight hours so the necessary flow rate is small. I think you need to look elsewhere for the root of the problem. As far as the vapourisers Tilley are currently selling, we've had reports of no hole, two holes, oval holes and so on. Replace the vapouriser but leave off the burner. When you pump up the lamp and open the control cock, does a thin jet of paraffin squirt out of the top of the vapouriser and rise several feet into the air? That's what you want...
Control cock. I also have similar problem. How to I get the part back in to the control cock? Photos. Tilley x246b. I had already posted this problem in my new thread" control cock----" before I spotted your thread.
Hello there! You will be able to re-assemble it and seal it with a thread lock sealer (should be widely available) You will need to take off the gauze filter on the bottom of the control cock.. It might not look like it unscrews, but it does.. grip it with some pliers and turn anti-clockwise.. there will be a spring and a seal/washer in there. It will make re-assembly easier if you remove it first.. you can practice re-assembling before you get the sealer to make sure it's working.. Hope this helps p.s. just noticed that Henry has answered your quest far more capably on different thread
Hi all. Might be a dumb question But I have a tabletop Tilley with a leak at the control cock and was wondering (like the Ali valve) if the black knob will come off? I've tried, applying a little firm pressure but don't want to break it Any help much appreciated.
@Rhythmsync The black knob does come off. On the early type there is a small grub screw in the side of the knob, release this screw and the knob can b3 removed. On the later, and most probable, type the black knob is screwed on. You’ll need to grip the valve spindle with pliers or similar, do use a piece of old leather when gripping soft metal parts. With the shaft gripped the knob will come off anti-clockwise. You may need to grip the knob too to free it.
We don't have a problem with dumb questions here but there's another one - what was the necessity for dismantling the control cock in the first place..?
Many thanks @BigStevie Hi @David.. It has a leak/slow drip when pressured. I thought there might of been an o ring seal on the shaft or something needing replacement. But.. I don't think the shaft can be removed
A leak there is common and often only requires tightening the gland nut. The shaft is not removeable. The O ring seal is in the knurled gland nut and normally retained in there when the nut is removed. An easy fix with a new seal which you will find in the Fettle Box. ::Neil::
@Rhythmsync .. If you look inside the knurled cup that the black knob was holding on there is an 'o' ring and you need to remove it and renew it Whoops ! Crossed with Neil
Brilliant! All fixed! That 'o' ring was Welded in lol.. Many many thanks everyone for your advice here!
For adamresearch- This youtube video is about servicing a Tilley. By Broadlander - Servicing a Tilley Lamp - Part 1 of 2
Great video! I watched a good while ago but for some reason the (important) part where it's mentioned - if it has the word Tilley on it, it unscrews in an anti clockwise direction- Note to self.. PAY ATTENTION! Many thanks!
