Hi all, Recently posted on here. My service kit turned up so I'm going through step by step. Just removed the vaporiser and took out the pricker rod, noticed it's very bent - see photo. I'm assuming this should be straight, as far as I know this has never been serviced as it was never used, or maybe used once to my knowledge. Help greatly appreciated. Best Jim
@NightShadow1991 - I would not worry about it. You can straighten it a bit by hand but the important bit is that it reaches the small hole in the vapouriser. You can feel it protrude if you push the vapouriser with needle in place onto a worktop or flat surface. Be careful to not damage the tip when cleaning. Chris
That bend being there is actually quite important. It is the "buffer spring" that stops the pricker shoulder putting full force on the jet orifice. I have had one burst through. Vapouriser completely knackered after that of course.
Thanks Chris, I could feel it to start with, now after cleaning I can't get it to the top to protrude front he small hole. I'll keep trying gently. Also, how would you go about removing the internals on the control cock. Do you in screw the horizontal house which the turn knob is fixed to?
Also, on the small aluminium cup, there were two washers to stop the paraffin leaking, didn't work as it had a few drips. In the service kit, there is this one. I guess it's the gland washer, does it matter which way it goes? Thanks
Might need a new control cock! I was turning the knob on and off and when looking down the threaded chamber to view the brass cup, I noticed what looks like a manufacturing error. There's a wide groove, like an extra chunk taken out when drilling the main hole and some rounded threads. When you turn the knob off and the brass cup rises, there is a crescent moon gap down the side. Is this as standard? As I say, never been taken apart before, so can only assume manufacturers error. The vaporiser screws in fine, but will this cause the paraffin to leak, despite new washers? Photo not great.
G'day @NightShadow1991 You don't. They are not made to be pulled apart. But the filter on the lower end does unscrew. There will be a spring and the seal (PIP) that needs to be replaced. I don't believe it makes a difference. Yes it is. It's not designed to make a seal. In my experience it is normally a sloppy fit. It operates the cleaning needle and the seal under the filter screen (mentioned above) Have a look at this post. Control cock cam on Tilley
@NightShadow1991 There is nothing wrong with that control cock. That "extra chunk" is a design feature which allows the cam to be rotated but restricts it to just a little more than 180 degrees. Why would you wish to remove the internals ? The control cock is not meant to be disassembled. The 'horizontal house' is sealed with Loctite (or similar) and you risk destroying it if you try to move it. Occasionally, you may come across a control that has very little or no thread locker on threads. Have a look here - Control cock cam on Tilley It doesn't matter which way round the gland washer goes. All serviceable Tilley parts are designed to be finger tight, you'll find a sweet spot on the control cock where the gland is tight enough that it doesn't leak but loose enough for the control to be operated swiftly so that the lamp doesn't go out when operating the pricker. Ooops, crossed with @ROBBO55
Thanks all, that's fine then. Even when fully closed, turned off, the brass cup has a gap, not just when open. If that's what you mean? Also, how do I get into the base of the control clock near the filter end? Its one piece of aluminium, no way if unscrewing to get the the spring. Thanks
Hi Chris, Thanks for your help. I've sorted it I think, I pushed the needle through but couldn't feel the pricker pushing through. Welders hands, can't feel anything. So out some white marker paint on top and Indo see a tiny prick, talking 1mm I guess. Doesn't seem like enough. However, I'm sure the spring for the valve in the lower cock assembly needs replacing. I have the last spring and washer to do it, I just can't seem to work out how I get to it ha? This model seems like a sealed lower control cock unit? Can anyone advise? Much appreciated
Good news on the pricker. Don't do anything to enlarge the hole ! re: cock - the alloy bit with the gauze on it does unscrew. it just looks like it does not. Under there is the spring and "pip" - that is the seal inside the cock. C
Brilliant. Thanks. I did stick a fine needle head in the top as there was some muck, but I didn't apply much pressure. Hopefully that'll be fine. I'll keep trying with the unscrewing, is it the actual shaft itself that unscrews or just the base? Thanks again!
I think mine is seized. I've been trying for ages and don't want to damage the ally, just can't see any join where it can undo, I've used pliers, leather, rubber, thread releaser. Anti seize compound, it's not budging. Odd one. I'll let it soak overnight and try tomorrow Newbie needing help with Lamp Control Cock
Much better pressure when pumping, wasn't Nas easy to start after the service, but lit up lovely now. Will leave running for an hour and turn off. Hopefully this will prevent the leaking paraffin I got around the base of the control cock body thanks for the help all! Much appreciated. Didn't expect it to take 3 hours, but worth it! I can now enjoy my guiness by Tilley light
Haha true that! I was watching a YouTube video by broadlander and I think he had the X246, similar to this, just more going on, the wire guard bolts to the tank and there was more component pieces on the assembly.
I am having the same problem Nightshadow 1991 a.k.a Jim had...I am servicing a Tilley R55 heater, and the pricker rod is bent slightly. I cannot get the rod to go all the way into the vaporizer, and I am afraid to push too hard for fear of bending the tiny needle. Any tips on how to re-insert the pricker rod so that it will go all the way in, pop out the top without bending the needle?
Hi David Straighten it out gently, make sure it is clean and then rotate it as you gently push it in, feeling your way. Hopefully there is no obstruction. You could also try and clean the vapouriser there are various methods detailed on this site.
Straightened out the rod somewhat, but still not having luck getting the pricker wire to come through the jet hole. It’s shy of making it through the vaporizer all the way by about 5 to 7 mm. It does not seem to be clogged, I soaked it in vinegar solution and rinsed it with water, and it blows a nice fine, even stream of water with some pressure applied and the pricker wire removed. When I hold the jet end up to the light and peer in the bottom of the vaporizer, I can see a small amount of daylight, and what looks like some debris inside? Hard to tell. I will try quenching next. I am also seeing some cleaning methods of ramming bicycle, brake cabling/stainless steel wire, etc. up inside the vaporizer. How gentle must I be? Can I damage these things that way?
It is all steel inside the only thing you need to be careful about is not enlarging or damaging the jet hole. It does sound like you have some loose carbon rattling around in there that is getting in the way
Good advice The needle does stick out from the end of the vapouriser a bit in order to sit on the cam part of the control tap when it is screwed together? Perhaps a photo or two of it could help here? Sometimes parts get swapped about Regards pb
UPDATE: I’ve quenched it, some carbon came out (the rod seems to goes in and out smoother) but this is as far as I can get it to go into the vaporizer without exerting pressure to overcome the spring. In this position, I do feel the spring engaging when the rod is inside the vaporizer. When I push on the remaining end of the pricker rod, I feel the resistance of the spring. Should the pricker rod stick out this far from the bottom of the vaporizer or is it supposed to go all the way inside, flush with the brass fitting at the bottom of the vaporizer? I am afraid to push too hard for fear of damaging the tip and I cannot yet feel the tip coming out the top of the vaporizer. Wondering if I can push this in further and maybe then I would feel the tip come out the top? Just don’t want to do that if that is incorrect and I could damage the tip. Also, after the quenching, when I shake the vaporizer, I can hear something rattling around in there, is there another spring at the top of the vaporizer that would be doing this that got loosened when the carbon broke up? Also, the tip of the pricker rod looks the same as it did when I first pulled it out of the vaporizer. Is this how it should look?
Hi That all looks ok to me ; hopefully others will concur?? sometimes the metal sleeves in the top of the inside of the vapouriser can rattle? You can see them in the link that Robbo posted there edit ; no it’s not supposed to be flush as it has to contact the cam in the control tap when you try it with the control tap make sure the sealing washer is on the vapouriser and the tap is turned to the left.. You may need to offer the tap to the vapouriser sideways to stop the cleaning wire falling into the tap hole and getting jammed. As you turn it slowly to the right feel on the top of the vapouriser for the needle.
Note: The tip of your pricker is correct. Your second photo with the pricker needle in the vapouriser is correct, and you should feel the pressure of the spring. Now: Get a flat board and holding the vapouriser vertical, pull down on the vapouriser steadily until the pricker tip emerges from the jet at the top of the vapouriser. It should emerge about 0.5mm. Don't worry about the rattle. I have a 1946 unused vapouriser that does that. Cheers Tony
