Just a bit of advice. Do not use a screwdriver in the slot in the valve body. This can break off one of the sides. I always use an old drill chuck for jobs like this.
Oh thanks @Nils Stephenson I was then lucky this morning (pictures below).its parts are now swimming in a bath of wd40 until that I get back from work). Noted for future though. Doesn't the drill chuck also put pressure on the walls of the valve body? Can you kindly share a link for such an application?
Another way is to put the pliers on the part that contains the thread. Of coarse with care and not squeezing the tube. With the screwdriver or other tools which fit into the slot there is a risk of breaking the side wall.
I use a small drill chuck too. There basically 2 types: You can guess which one would be preferred to lessen the risk of crimping-in the thin brass wall of the non-return/footvalve tube. Sometimes, I do take the short-cut of using a flat screwdriver tip at the slot, which is very risky as mentioned. You need to have a certain 'experienced-feel' on how much controlled-torque to apply and care to avoid slipping and damaging the part. But then, I avoid it on parts that has gunked-up or those that has never been opened for a long time.
I was just lucky. I was patient though, the part esd rained with penetrating oil for several times throughout the night; This I believe helped. Noted for the hints @MYN and @WimVe.
I am cleaning this part now. I wanted to make sure all is well. I've noticed a thin rod or a kind of pin showing from the lower part inside it. How shall I deal with it please? And does the pin have to be totally inside the tube or it should be a bit out of it? The second picture is a zoomed one. How can I at the end make sure it is properly functioning please? How do I test it?
Assuming we still talk about the fuel pick up with the valve at one end: isn't that the lower end of the push rod which is operated by the control knob? Did you get this rod out in one piece: lower part, extender block, upper end with needle?
Yes that was done. The part in my question above is the one inserted inside the rapid torch that is used to preheat.
"A theoretica": the feed tube or fuel pick up of a rapid is a tube with a small filter at the end. There should not be something inside as far as I know.
Thank you @MYN I"be just finished the cleaning (aesthetically 90%). It took me 13 hours since this morning. I can run a test now. Can I test the rapid burner without fuel in the tank? The tank is pressurizing but I am not getting air from the rapid torch, knowing that I've cleaned everything. Below are some pictures (Using the table which was liked by one gentleman previously ).
I could not do it without the support of this lovely community. Okay, it is not Apollo 18, but to save and restore such a lantern is something good
Nicely done @Migwar Looks like you've had the mantle already attached. Normally, I'd test-fire without the mantles attached to ascertain beforehand, that the burner and other parts are working in good condition which, produce a clean, pale blue flame. In many ways, silmilar what @Tony Press had done in this thread: Testing burners That way, we avoid wasting mantles in case there are some other issues to be sorted out on the burning. i.e., rich burning, flaring ups, liquid fuel not vaporizing well, partially clogged or worn jet orifices, etc. Sometimes, we won't be sure how would it perform without the actual preliminary tests. However, if you intend the lantern as a shelf queen only for display purposes, then all the testing, etc would not be necessary.
My preferred starting point after the clean up and passing all leak tests would be the Rapid Preheater. Depending on the condition of the rapid, your experience/expertise and of course, your luck, it can sometimes be a little tricky. The overall design is similar to the one shown here, except for the fuel pickup tube:- The space around Pos. 44 is where it obtains the fount air. Pos.50 would be responsible for fuel pickup. Observe the assembly and constructional details of the section before Pos.29(valve stem/seat). This is where the proper ratio preset and pre-mixing of fuel and air takes place. If this area is messed-up, the rapid will not work accordingly. Part 55 would be the so-called 'preheater jet' and Pos.60 is its orifice. In combination with part 55(preheater cap) and design details at the top section, atomizing of the pre-mixed fuel and air would take place. If the orifice, Pos.60 is worn, the atomizing won't be as good as it should.
Sure at @WimVe. Many thanks to you and to @MYN for all this help and information. I did fire it this morning. A bit of more tweaking and this is a charm. I wanted to share a video. Can't find this option.
@Migwar To share a video, you have to post it on another site (eg YouTube) then post the link to that video here. Tony
Thank you @Tony Press I've just realized that I expected the light to be brighter despite the Powerful sunshine light this morning.
