Just an added note:- In case if anyone would wish to go even further on regards to getting the highest bond strengths of the paint or coating on brass, a chemical pre-treatment would usually be suggested. The application of paints, coatings and adhesives usually share a similar direction in their requirements for surface preparation and pre-treatments of the parts involved. The type of treatment and preparation would depend on the material, type of coating and the specific requirements of the application, which would determine the desired bond strengths. The literature for all these are abundant on the web and other publications, particularly so for industrial applications involving adhesives.
That's true, we are, and currently I've stripped a Bialaddin tank for respraying. As you say, little (if any) surface preparation, no primer or undercoat and only one coat of paint. I'll at least use etch primer under the top coat(s). One question, though - I'm buggered if I've ever seen any instruction on a rattle-can to bake the paint on. Why would anyone do that? - especially with today's 2K iso-cyanate paints which require the use of an air-fed mask when spraying. You (not you, DP2!) then bake that on in your home kitchen using a domestic oven you're next going to cook food in and fill the house with paint fumes - wow... Guidance on working with 2-pack isocyanate paints
No baking in the oven for me, just a bit of gentle heat to aid drying and mainly to prevent blooming caused by condensation. Even if o wanted to I would never get away with it and certainly would never hear the last of it! I also don't use 2k paint at home, know all about what's needed to safely use these materials as there is a large train painting facility where I work.
“Cure at 200F (93C) for one hour”: Some automotive paints that I use, that cure over days or weeks, can be cured fast by baking for an hour at around 60C. Cheers Tony
I only recently started to bake my paint in an oven, but when I say oven, this is what I mean.... ...and the reason I do is time and the risk of damaging the surface before it's properly hardened. Through trial and error I have found the 45 - 50 deg for a couple of hours has the same effect of leaving the paint to air cure for a week or so and after it's cooled, the surface is bone dry and very hard! I only put a tank/fount in the kitchen oven once to dry it after washing it with warm soapy water having stripping and de-greased it. The whole house stank of paraffin fumes that day and the oven had to be left on full blast for an hour or two to burn away the remaining smell! I won't be doing that again - I'm quite surprised I'm still married to be perfectly honest! BTW I was given this for free by local school's Design and Tech dept. I only asked if they had a metal cabinet I could convert into a dryer and they gave me this! Happy days!
A lot of high temperature paints are based on silicone resins for the binder. While these could withstand higher tenperature ranges, they are not as mechanically tough as the epoxies and polyesters. A true heat-cured coating would be realized by powder-coating systems.
There's a video on Youtube on how Coleman did the paint: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...AjAAegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw0eq86qmR96VN4GFt9kVWl-
Thanks, Tony, but that refers to high temperature engine paint which is obviously intended to withstand, er, high temperatures - not what I was meaning when I (rather loosely) used the term "rattle cans". I was, of course referring specifically to aerosol cans containing paint intended for finishing car body panels and parts - the ones we tend to use for lamp tanks and other parts. Yes, they probably can but the question remains, why would you want to do that? - impatience, bad planning or what? Which would, I think, melt the solder used in lamp manufacture - or at least, get dangerously close to doing so...
True. Not all lamps are suited for powder coating. There are some Coleman and Milspecs which I came across having no soldered joints. I think the joints could have been welded, brazed or crimped.
A box like that with "WARNING!" on the front was far too worrying for the school to keep then... All done now on the computer by "simulation" we suppose. Great for you though Colin!
@David Shouksmith Probably impatience! . But also risk reduction. Different automobile paints have curing times that vary from a few days to weeks. I spoke to one of the crew that works on refurbishing these: He said that if you had an oven the quick way to cure the paint was an hour at about 60C. He said it would work for most automobile paint, and you’d end up with hard finish that was resistant to spills. Note: I don’t do mine in the house! Cheers Tony
Sure the green paint looks lovely but that vehicle - wow! It could be extremely useful around where I live!
@ColinG Even though that photo was taken outside of my place, its usual habitat is Antarctica. The Australian Antarctic Division brings their Hägglunds back on a 7-year cycle and completely rebuilds them, including the paint job. Cheers Tony
Have a community whip round Hagglund BV206 All Terrain Vehicles FOR SALE - Hagglunds BV206.co.uk » Hagglund BV206 All Terrain Vehicles
I use Rustoleum, Duplicolor and Krylon rattle can paints for most lantern and stove founts and cases, VHT for the bits that need high temp paint like manifolds and burners. Color coat always gets a coat of Duplicolor engine clear for fuel resistance. A friend was converting his kitchen from electric to gas and gave me his electric stove/oven. I installed it in the garage and that's where paint get dried. I've found that 30-45 minutes at 170-200 degrees F is more than adequate. I allow the paint to become dry to the touch before it goes in the oven. One bake for the color coat, allow to cool then a second bake after the clear coat is applied. The only time I heat the VHT any higher is for high heat applications and then I only do the 250 and 400 degree steps and skip the 600 degree cure. I used to use a base coat of Rustoluem automotive primer and wet sand before applying the color coat but no longer do. I open the big garage door and turn on a fan or two when baking a paint job. But then, being in coastal Florida there's pretty much always a fan on in the garage. Coleman uses a copper solder for steel founts which has a melting point far in excess of anything your oven can do. Brass founts with soft lead solder are another issue, but 170F should be perfectly safe and will get the job done. Why bake a fount? Speed and convenience. Where I live, humidity is always an issue and paint can take a week or more to get anywhere close to hard. Keeping it from getting dinged or contaminated with airborne debris in my garage is a problem. Most days paint will dry to the touch in 15-40 minutes. So from painting to touchable 30 minutes, oven time 30 minutes, cool in front of fan 15 minutes, clear coat to dry 15 minutes, second bake 30 minutes. Roughly two hours from paint to assembly rather than a week to ten days. When I built my garage I planned for installing a separate stove so power and space were available. A second hand electric stove can be had fairly cheaply, at least in the states. Some folks use a large toaster oven, certainly they're big enough for lantern parts. Even my stove oven will accommodate only the smallest of suitcase stove cases. A Coleman folding oven on a camp stove would work well as a drying oven, you could even put it on a hot plate rather than a GPA stove. It would also have the advantage of collapsing and storing away for the space challenged user.
