Petromax 829B is it original?

Not me personally - we don't see many brytlits over the pond. Many of us make our own seals anyway from sheets using punches. I have used genuine Px service kits, and they always worked fine.

 

If they are the only source that you're finding convenient, then why not?
Maybe for a start, just some seals and parts that aren't too cost prohibitive. Not something that you'd mind too much paying or regret over, even after finding them to be not entirely matching.
Quality-wise, the Britelyt parts do seem to be good.
The best is to contact them to find out if they have anything that could fit an original German-made Petromax 829B from the 1950s or 60s.

 

The 829B came in today. I'll post some pictures later. The correct markings are on the fount, though there are a couple of dents that were not disclosed in the description.

 

More to come once it's working.

Are the Luxor mantles collectible? The ones that came with the lantern look like they're in great shape.

 

Luxor mantles are still being made.
Recent manufacture come in a plastic bag, older ones in a paper pouche. Older ones may contain Thorium.
I would not collect these, I'd just use them.

btw: You should remove the black paint from that lantern.

Erik

 

- yes I agree it does it no favours !

 

Will acetone do any damage to the nickel plating under the paint?

 

No it will not harm metal

 

Thank you. I give it a bath in acetone to remove the paint.

@Erik Leger
The mantles are the old Luxor in the paper pouch. Are the new Luxor mantles imbued with Yttrium then?

I've got the Luxor mantles and Petromax brand mantles. Which do you all prefer between the two?

 

Luxor mantles of recent make are non-radioactive.
I would not care about a brand name. If a mantle gives a good light then it is OK for me.

I would not use a Thorium coated mantle indoors. I know others do not mind.

Erik

 

I was afraid I might find something bad under the paint.

 

I'm not sure what's going on with that patch. It doesn't leak water from it.

 

Lead washer for check valve appears to be in good shape. I'll re use it.

 

How far should turn the fuel valve? Once it was too hard to turn by hand, I tightened it with a wrench but went a little too far so it's not centered between the petromax symbols. Should I give it one more turn?

 

Arrow pointing down is open and the cleaning needle is retracted.

Arrow pointing up is closed and the cleaning needle is extended through the nipple/jet ontop of the carburetor by half a mm.

There is no "stop" in turns as the fuel flow is controlled by a cam operated spring foot valve inside the fuel pickup at the bottom inside the fount. You can spin the wheel in both direction pretty much indefinitely.

There is no gradual or adjustable control for brightness, only on or off, nothing in-between.

 

Thank you, Ill be sure to orient the valve wheel properly.

I'm sorry I wasn't clear in my earlier post. I was referring to clocking the valve/carburetor assembly.

 

The valve wheel should be facing directly opposite from the center post/screw of the fount, complete 180.

 

Thank you. I'm thinking of repainting the fount. Whatever the previous owner used to fill the dents has come off. I can refill with jb weld or something similar and paint over it. It looks terrible as is.

 

For a moment I thought it was a solder job at a glance to patch a leak, either way, should do a leak test pressurized in a water bath, check for bubbles.

 

I'll do that. The patches fell off and revealed dents. I'll probably paint it black again, unless there's a shade of gray that will look decent.

 

That's about the only thing that is bad about this lantern. Well, it is unfortunate but it happens to anyone.
If it is mine, I'd remove the bad patch and fix that with soft solder. I personally prefer all-metal for repair work on such items. I'd only use epoxies like JB-Weld, etc if the all-metal repair route isn't an option.
I'd not regret over removing the paint at all. It is preferable to find out whatever's hiding under the paint and sort that out before you put the lantern into operation.
As for the aesthetics in its final appearance, you can certainly re-paint if you wish.
Overall, with all the other items that came with it, that's still a great score.

 

I've never soft soldered anything before or I would try it. JB weld seems to be the easiest, and it should sand down readily since it's soft.

 

No issues anyway. Use whatever you're handy with.
JB-Weld is fuel resistant.

 

I would first contact the seller, maybe you can get some money back.

 

I sent her a couple of messages, but have been getting ignored.

I got the lantern back together with all new parts. When I pressurize the fount, it leaks through the top of the generator where the needle sticks out.

It leaks fuel when the needle is sticking out in the "closed" position. What could be the cause?

 

Here's a picture.

 

Your foot valve needs a new replacement rubber sealing pip.

@Gilbert

 

@Dashwood
I replaced the sealing pip earlier. I remembered I re used the hex nut the top of the generator.

I replaced the nut and the leaking stopped. Now I have another problem, the rapid pre heater sputters but will not stay lit. Just a quick flame that goes out. I've pumped the fount up to 2 bars.

 

I noticed leaking around the seal of the rapid pre heater. I must not have tightened it down all the way. The good news is can loosen the rapid and still be able to re use the lead washer since I haven't smashed it down all the way yet.

What could be causing the sputtering in the rapid?

 

Fuel vapor is visibly shot into the cage from the rapid. When I cleaned it, I didn't notice any clogs and I could see light through all the small openings in the rapid fittings.