Just got my first pressure lamp - now what to do?

Hello all,
I just got a Optimus 300P on a auction house and I am really not sure how to begin this jurney.
Here it is:




I hope to get it in shape to be a gift to someone who just bought a house where it would fit perfect.
Now, should I dismantle it and clean/polish it or should I test it first in the condition it is in?

How do I polish and restore this lamp, what is the best method?
Steel wool or chemicals?
Is there any site about restoration I would be happy Just dont want to damage the piece by making bad choices.
Also the rinse needle, is that supposed to be possible to rotate with the wheel or how does it work?
Thanks in advance from snowy sweden

 

You can see what yours would have looked like here.

Yes the lamp should be dismantled to a certain extent and cleaned. Cleaning would be best with a citric acid solution. If you do use steel wool, do not use anything harsher than 0000 grade as the nickel plating will not like it. Whatever you do, it will need new seals in the filler cap, level gauge and most likely a new 'pip' in the pump valve (NRV). I'm sure others will chime in with good servicing advice.

 

Welcome aboard!

 

When polishing cold worked or stamped brass with compound or paste, make sure they're ammonia free!!! unless you want surprise stress cracks later!

Always check the MSDS To see if it has any ammonia and their mixed derivitaves!

 

The first thing you should probably do is to carefully remove the glass globe and keep it in a safe place to avoid accidentally breaking it.
Then you can proceed with cleaning on the lantern parts as advised.
The lantern is missing its top cap. You might be able to source out one from a donor lantern if desired. It'd still work without it anyway.

 

Recommended video links:
youtube, King ColeMan channel and
"Restoring and Rebuilding a 1950s Petromax Lantern"
Restoring and Rebuilding a 1950s Petromax Lantern (youtube.com)
Yours is simpler Optimus lantern not Petromax with Rapid preheater, but the link will help. At the beginning just try soap and soft brush and see if you like the result. Bath in mild citric acid solution will clean better, remove patina, but may remove nickel plating as well.
also
Petromax 826 clean up/restoration guidance needed

 

Thanks a lot for your comments.
I will need to look out for the headcap and also sealings.
Is there any online instructions on how to dismatle the lamp or is it enough with "mechanic experiance"?
I have worked with model airplaines and bikes but this pressure lamp is completley new to me.
One thing as I asked already is that I cannot turn the needle 360 degrees, is that something I would expect to be able to?
Second question would be how to dismount the pieces needed...
Instrunctions would be great value..

 

Hi @Turbo_100 welcome!

that’s a nice gesture to restore a lamp for a friend

lots of good advice already there for you

the fact that the wheel is stuck indicates there is maintenance needed.. it won’t run properly as the needle may be blocking the fuel jet? If you force it you will damage the needle or something else
The last post by piotrek shows some links that will really help.. the last one goes to a thread.. scroll down and there is a brilliant pdf of a similar lamp being dismantled, step by step
If you are not sure about anything then post pictures of what parts puzzle you and folks here can talk you through it??

regards
pb

 

Some mechanical experience and intiution would certainly be handy. You should be able to dis-assemble most of the components.
The pricker needle control knob is rotatable 360°. The reason why you are unable to do that now is possibly due to some parts being seized within the vaporizer. You need to strip the vaporizer down to its basic components, both for cleaning and correction, should any is damaged or distorted. The parts diagram should be similar to what the attached file shows.
The pricker needle control mechanism constuction is relatively simple, working with a cam-like principle to move the cleaning rod/needle up and down.

 

Thanks all,
I made some disamble and noticed hpw the needle is working like a engin camshaft.
Now I can rotate and see the needle movin up/down when the top nut is removed.

Even though this 300P was not complete (did not include the top hat) I will use it to learn cleaning and maintenance.
Now when needle can be rotated, should I give it a try to lighten it up?
Seller said pump seal was replaced but I dont know.

Is there any risk trying to light it? - if it failes to liget I do full dissmount and cleaning/restore and try again.

Is there somewhere I can by restore kit with bushings and stuff needed?, I live in Sweden som tips would be appreciated.

My goal is to have it nice and working in a couple of weeks as it would be a present needed by then.

Final question - can I check if the seals and such are good enought without lighten the lantern?
Like fill it with kerrosene and pump or any other way to check if it is woth while to try to light before restoration?

 

Hi @Turbo_100
Glad you have made some progress

if you want to check for leaks you can pump air in then submerge in water with the fuel filler closed ?
if you are not sure if the pump is working, close up the filler , give it 30 pumps and open the pressure release? You should hear the air coming out
a little vegetable oil or light machine oil works on the pump leather

cheers

 

If it passes the dunk test you could flush the fount out with clean kerosene and try this Testing burners . Then you won't be wasting a mantle

 

Once you have thoroughly cleaned (especially the internals) of all the parts that would be in direct contact with the fuel, including the fuel flow paths, you can then check if the pump is working and pressurizing the unit properly. Cleaning is far more important on the internals as compared to external cosmetic cleaning if you want the lantern to be operational.
Once it has passed the leakage tests, you can then fill it up with fuel and proceed to pressurize it. There should no hurries to light it up at this point yet.
You need to make sure there is proper fuel flow from the fount right up to the vaporizer and jet orifice when you turn the cleaning needle down.
The fuel should exit from the jet/gas tip orifice with a single, vertical, straight and sharp/fine stream. Not skewed, spraying or with side drips, etc. There should be no leakage at the jet/vaporizer connection.
This is to ensure it is working as correctly as it should before the full assembly and final light up.
Preheating and lighting should be the last of priorities if all the above has not been done yet.

 

Hello,
So i filled it up with 1/2 liter kerrosene and pomped and I dont see/feel any preasure building up.
Should the lantern build and hold pressure when I pump no matter the "clening valve position"?
As Podbros suggested, I pimped quite some time and I here/see now pressure buildup at all.

I did a test (perhaps stupid) but I removed the cap on to on the rins needed (not sure whats its called but the needle moving up/down when rotaiting the weel).
I could with m mouth blow in to the top no matter if the wheel was open or not.
Is rhis correct? - I guessed thar like this I can never build pressure, given that this pass should close when needle is down.

I tried wiith Kerrosene as well.
Any thoughts?

 

Hello,
Update/Edit this post since it became obsoloete..

I re-checked the gaskets and at least the pump gasked is completly destroyd, I did not see that earlier
Apart from that, I can imaging the pressure gauge and filling hole needs gaskets, are there any others?

Also I dont understand how the needle connected to the turn-wheel works.
I opened the top mutter on the needle and I could blow air (with my mouth) mp matter if the needle was down or up.
Should this passage be fully closed when the needle is down or shoul I aways be able to blow air no patter how the wheel points?

Last Q, where can I find spare gaskets for a 300P, preferebly in Sweden?

Al the best and thanks for support, I will need more I guess - but those lamps are lovely to spend time with

 

I think this is what you need: Tusentals gasolprodukter på nätet

 

You can get spare parts here
Tusentals gasolprodukter på nätet

But in an earlier post you said

Yes.

 

This will help with part names.
What do I call this part?: Optimus

 

If the vaporizer and cleaning mechanism parts are similar to these:-


then there would be no non-return valves, check valves or any kind of positive shut-off devices in the assembly.
That is to mean, you can still blow air through the assembled unit regardless of whether the cleaning needle is in the 'up' or 'down' position.
Nevertheless, once you get the pump in good working condition, the amount of air that enters the fount would exceed whatever is escaping through the jet/gas tip orifice.
Some additional pictures here while you're fettling your Optimus 300P would certainly be helpful. Especially those taken at any stage when you're working on any particular part on the lantern.

 

Reposted as answere

 

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Hello,
I underastood that there was a camshaft moving it up and down but I did not uderstand if the needle is down position should completly block fuel to flow?
I am really sorry if I made you all to believe I understands these lamps, I was humberly trying to say I understood how the needele moves, I stilll have now clue on how and what is expected as result of the mechanics.

Again sorry if I offended somenone. I am a zero point beginner.
I need a lot of help with this new hobby,

 

Hi @Turbo_100
Don’t worry you haven’t offended anybody.. we are all still learning here
As Myn has said photos usually help

Have you started dismantling yet? One step at a time..It looks like you will at least need a pump cup if no pressure
I think other members have sent links to Fogas for parts.. you can contact them for finer details about parts to make sure they send you everything you need

cheers
p

 

Hello,
here are a few pictures (and some questions)






Last two pictures, should these parts be dissassembled furter?
I plan to sink the parts in Citric acid (1 tblspoon and 5 liters of water as per the video), but I dont have any 0000 steel wool so will use sponges for citchen use, does that make sens or a waste of time?

I am not sure what plating this lamp should have, should it be bronze/brass coloured or more like nickle plated?
Thanks for advice.

 

The needle control will break down into these parts. There is a graphite packing inside the nut, the only way to get it out is to destroy it so it's best to leave it in.


Sponges for kitchen use will work well on these parts.

Originally, the lamp would have been nickel plated.

 

So should I leave the pieces together as my picture and rinse / clean it together in citric acid or would I better disassemble it?

 

Hello,
The last one is in ONE piece
This is the dip tube

Gilles

 

Great !

an old toothbrush (or two) is always useful as well to give things a scrub when you inspect the parts as they soak

 

Now that you have dis-assembled the lantern, I reckon it'd be best to thoroughly check the fuel-pickup(lower vaporizer section, part 144) in the last picture above. It should be free from all blockages by old fuel residues, etc. It would be preferable to thoroughly clean all you can at this stage. A flush through with carb cleaners would suffice in most cases. Otherwise, a soak in hot lye would clear off most, if not everything that is persistent. The citric soak would remove most patina or oxidation if you find them undesirable. Sometimes the hot citric would work on old residues too but not nearly as effective as lye.
Similarly, the 'Preston loop' upper vaporizer part should be clean and clear from all blockages. If the lantern had been frequently used in the past, then the upper vaporizer might well be clogged by carbon/coke or heavily carbonized fuel residues. It is usually harder to thoroughly clean out this, especially on the 'looped' section, particularly when the old fuel residues had been converted to hard coke after many cycles of use. If so, it is best to remove these now, rather than at a later stage.

 

Thanks, but should I open the cam shaft assembly on the 3rd picture or can I sink it all down in citric acid, without removing the graphite packing?
The shaft is not rotating easilly in nut so it is really hard to turn the rins wheel. Not sure if the packing is in the spare part kit..

Also I have now cleaned the tank, is it wise to dry this in owen or what is recommended?
It has air dried for about 24hrs in 18 degrees now.
Thanks for advice

 

So now I have opened the service kit and is slightly confused:



No1: Pump vent
No2: Nozzle and Rinsneedle
No3: Spreader
No4: Inspection glas/level gauge + Dont know (there aew two)
No5: Dip tube at the bottom
No6: Dont know
No7: Dont know but could be bushing for the rins needle assembly (The graphite referred to above)
No8: Filler cup/preassure release
No9: Dont know
No10: - Not sure if this is the pump leather bushing for the 300
No11: - Not sure if this is the pump leather bushing for the 300

Since the serice kit is for many lanterns perhaps some parts are not to be used on the 300...
OPTIMUS 300, 300P, 309, 310
PRIMUS 1082
RADIUS 103

I hope someone can help to sort this out, I dont want to spoil stuff :|
Thanks in advance