Just got my first pressure lamp - now what to do?

Think I sorted it out now with some help from the service kit provider (bold was my unknowns).

No1: Pump vent
No2: Nozzle and Rinsneedle
No3: Spreader
No4: Inspection glas/level gauge, there are two, one each side of the glass
No5: Dip tube at the bottom
No6: Plug for preassure gauge
No7: Graphite packing rins needle
No8: Filler cup/preassure release
No9: Filler cap on another model
No10: Pump lether on another model
No11: Pump leather bushing for the 300

Thanks!

 

The third picture you posted above..



The part I have arrowed is the part that tightens the gland packing to stop fuel leaking out.. if it is tight then loosen using two suitable spanners
If you put it in the acid it won’t need long.. maybe even just a polish up with some metal polish as it doesn’t look too bad from here

yes there are seals for more than one lamp.. have a look at the pump cup on yours.. take it off and see if you can tell which one will fit?
Ah! You have found them

 

I think number 7 is the gland packing for the part I arrowed in the picture?
You may not need to replace it.. only if it leaks when you test later on

good progress

 

Yes - and thanks for the update.
I just runned in to another issue, I understand that there are packings on both sides of the level gauage glas, I have removed the on on the inside but the glas is stuck to the outer packing, any goos way to get the glas out without breaing the glas?

 

Should I be resonably happy with this result?
I dont have a polish machine but I want to see if it works, then perhaps some more elbow greese bofore I pack it as a gift to a friend.
There are a bit of buckles but that I guess is ste story of the lantern..

 

Cor that looks great !
Well done

 

Mostly those look like seals for various places and probably fit only where they're intended to go.

No.1 looks like the non-return valve (NRV) but I'm no expert on these lanterns. No.3 we call the nozzle or ceramic in the UK. Nos. 10 and 11 look like pump leathers...

 

Thanks all for the updates!
Anyone that has a good tip on removing the glas for the volume gauge?
This us where I am stuck now as I am afride to destroy the glas piece.
Thannks in advance

 

You've had some good advice with some of the parts, but I will sum up your list.

1. Pump valve or NRV. The one you have could probably be serviced, but it might be easier to just replace it. Do you have the correct tool to remove the NRV?
2. Jet and needle. As you have already said and will probably be needed.
3. Flame spreader. The one you have looks ok, so you might not need this.
4. Washers for the level gauge. You have already worked that out. Sometimes it helps to use a thin sharp blade to work around the outside washer to loosen it.
5. Lead washer for the lower vapouriser. You will need to use it.
6. Most likely a lead washer for the NRV. If you use the new one, it looks like it already has one fitted.
7. Graphite packing for the gland nut. Might not be needed as mentioned in a post by Podbros.
8 and 9. Filler cap washers. As mentioned, the kit is for several lamps so you use the one that fits. If I remember correctly it will be the larger one.
10 and 11. Leather pump cups. As before, use the one that fits. It will be the one with the larger central hole.

It looks like you have done a good job with the cleaning, so now it is just a matter of putting it all together again. Be careful with the lead washer for the lower vapouriser. You can't undo it and get things lined up again after.

Be patient, ask questions and have fun.

 

You can try to use a suitable sized socket from a socket wrench kit and carefully press the glass with it.



If the glass breaks a glass piece from an old houshold fuse holder has the same dimension.



Good luck with this!

Regards Matti

 

Looks like the parts have cleaned up well.
Once dried, I think it'd be good to start restoring the pump first. You'd need the pump to be working to conveniently pressure test the fount. The rationale: the lantern, regardless of how good it looks, wouldn't be useful if the fount is leaking.
On the pump, one of the most crucial steps would be ensuring the pump leather cup is well oil-soaked before use/assembly.

 

Hello all and thanks for inout.
Nils, I bought the tool for replacing the pump valve and it was in the it so I replaced it. Will try to servce the old just for learing and saving after this project is done.

Was able to remove the glas without break it by using socket wrench (as Matti suggested - thanks) and "thumb pressure", it took quite a bit.
Outer packing was easilly removed after 1 min in simmering mild acid but I was not sure the glas could take that treat.

I was fighting a bit with the gland nut assembly (spindle I think its called), there was basically no threads (i think) left and it did not go smooth to turn. I nocked the shaft out from the nutwith a plastic head hammer.
There seemd to be some burrs on the shaft so the nut was not moved off easilly, also the sliding dual thread piece could not pass over the burrs.. I cannot feel them with my fingers so it's not much.

After polishing the rod the graphite packing slides well and the threded asembly rotates nice but cannot be pulled out completely, but I dont thnk that matters, also there dont seem to be any gasket on the assembly of below towards the lamp, only the graphite, is this correct?



For the nut I thik I got the praphite packing out, what is you opinion?



Now time to assemble so a bit of more questions...

1. Should I sink the leather pump cup in oil and would standard synthetic engin oil work?
2. Is there any perticular order the pieces should go together?
3. Is there any touque I should put to the lead washer on the vapurisor bottom or use feel and tighten if it leaks?
4. Is there any clever way to test for leaks before trying to start it up? - one way was posted ealry in the thread and I might try that but suggestions appreciated.
5. What is the correct mouning on the kerrosene level gauge? should the floater be on the left or the right side from looking in to the mouting hole?

Sorry for all the questions but I want to get things right and perhaps someone else can use the thread later
I have dried the pieces for a few days, would that be suficcient?
is it crisis if there are any moister left so I should use the owen before I assemle?

Thanks all for great helt and I hope this can help others as well!

 

I did not soak anything in lye, I just used citric acid. i have no clue how the 'preston loop' looks inside.
Now I feel I should not have left this out but perhaps I can disassemble the hot parts if it does not work correctly without buying a new service kit (at~$50).
I honestly need to say that I missed this advice but will be more careful and use lye on my next lantern.
Visual inspection looks ver good but the preson loop I have no clue.

Thanks for input!

 

From the picture of the Optimus parts list, the 'spindle' is called the 'Excenter' part #105. This can be fully pulled out from the body or 'nipple for excenter', part #107 as is referred to in the list.
The excenter rod or spindle of your lantern might be slightly bent or perhaps still partially stucked in the axial direction by hardened residues or some portions might still be having a burr or two. You do not necessarily need to pull it out but do check that it is straight enough to work properly.
Old, used graphite or 'plumbago' packings usually wouldn't loosen out from the gland or sleeve nut, part #113 that easily. They are usually deformed and somewhat expanded within the nut, holding it in place. Since you have polished the excenter rod, you'd then need to check the clearance between the packing hole and the excenter rod while spinning it a bit. The amount of clearance should not be so great that light can be clearly seen through the gap. If the packing appears overly compressed by previous tightening of the sleeve nut, it may need replacement.

 

To start with, there isn't any washer or packing between the excenter assembly and the lower vapouriser. It is just a metal to metal seal.

Now for your questions.
1. I would use a light oil like a hobby oil or sowing machine oil. Soaking is fine but I usually drip oil into the upturned cup of the leather and let is soak for a while. You can see when the oil has penetrated the leather. It should be moist but not dripping.
2. I would normally fit the lower vapouriser to the tank as one of the first things. That way none of the other fittings get in the way. You should aim to align the cleaning control over the Optimus logo on the tank.
3. It is basically a case of 'feel'. The main thing is that you can only tighten a lead washer, never loosen it. If it tightens past the point where you want it positioned, there is no way back. This is why a lot of us make our own washers by punching out of lead sheeting.
4. The best way to check for leaks is to pump up the tank with nothing in it and then put it in a bucket of water. Any bubbles will reveal leaks.
5. There is a gap in the mounting ring for the level gauge so it can only be fitted one way.

It's good that you are asking questions and adding photos. After this one you will be ready to try another one.

 

So I completed the lantern, put pressure and sinked it in water - no bubbles.
Burned the "mantle" with the internal alcohol lightning cup.
It seems like the lightning alcohol cup is not well centered below the mantle and perhaps I failed to place the cup correctly, but there seemd to be only one position.
Also from the cup there is a "pipe" pointing upwards, what is the purpose of this?

Either way - I managed to light it up and it has been shining for an hour now. I can see some flickering efter 5-10sec, is that normal?
Is there abyway to see if the lamp is shining with expected candela/light?

Thank you all for the help and input! It has been really helpful!

 

Great News !!!

No pictures??? We like pictures of lamps in action
Also pictures help with things like the size of mantles ; whether too big or too small etc

well done!

regards
pb

ps the tube is to help with the lighting.. as the methylated spirits die down it leaves a tongue of flame to help light up

 

And this is the mantle, looked quite lage..




You think I am OK to give this lantern away to my friend?

 

Another pic of the lantern i action

 

It all looks fine to me - a good job done.

 

Pulsing is normal, if it's subtle. Every lantern will "hunt" but it should be at the frequency our eyes and brain shouldn't notice, more akins to how candles and oil wick lamps flicker.

Now if it's visibly changing in brightness, makes surging noises or pulses in a steady rhythm. It could be from a variety of things such as the life of the vaporizer, how worn the jet is, or how much heat blocking carbon buildup is present inside which will make the liquid fuel struggle to boil.

 

It's subtile and since I had it on for som hour I kind of feel I get along with the lantern.
Sound is not alterned and "hunt" is there but not muchs, I I read "hunt" as that the lantern moves a bit in shining..
Anyway the lantern feels just a bit more alive than a led lamp.... j

I am happy I bought this lantern from the auction house, it gave me a new hobby and new people to keep in contact!

Again thanks all for making me able light this lantern!

 

Great work and it all looks good. Well done.

The alcohol cup should not be under the mantle, it is the vapouriser that needs to heated.

 

It's cleaned up nicely and working, congratulations

 

It looks well done. A random flicker is nornal. The spirit preheater's position is such that the flames of burning alcohol would impinge more on the vaporizer rather than the burner or mantle. The vaporizer needs to get hot enough to work properly.

 

Hello again guys -
I tried to renovate another lamp (1st one i did was for my son and ofcourse my daughter want one as well..)
Now the issue - I changed all service parts and it seems to build and hold pressure.
When lit it was not shining bright like my other lamps, but glowed a bit down below the "sock" and flames around it, after some 15 minutes the glow-net (sock) turned black.
Still pressure but I turned it off.

When lit it looked like this:


After some 15 minutes it looked like this:


Any ideas?
The sound was like the other lamps, and as said no leaks detected.

I have a feelng thar the net (sock) might have been faulty as I think I could see som minor flames coming out at below but that might also be my imagination..

To note I also adjusted the cleaning needle to get a bit higher as I could not feel it with my finger top when revolving the cleaning-wheel, so now I can feel the tip like on my other lamps.

Any advice is appreciated!

 

Ensure the nipple/jet is tight and snug with no leaks. Test for leaks by pumping it up a bit and cover the nipple, observe for fuel weeping past the threads. Leakage here will make the mantles over flame.

Also adjust the air gap of your Jtube to around 14-15mm assuming the Jtube is identical to a petromax. Depending, certain tube clamps likes to work loose and drops, shortening the gap and making the mantles burn rich.

If you have a petromax wrench, they are already pre measured to correct gap depending on the candlelight power rating of your lantern.



Once set proper, reassemble and light as normal. You do not need to necessarily replace a darkened mantle as a proper burning lantern will slowly burn away the black back to brilliant white.

 

I would try what Dashwood says first. The sock (mantle) is only defective if broken. It is a consumable really. But gaps allowing flames to shoot out will damage the globe (glass)
Bad mixture, leaks and poor pre-heating tend to result in fireballs - your picture might suggest that there just is not enough getting out of the top. A lot of carbon inside the vaporiser (generator) can cause this as can the foot valve (the one at the end of the fuel pickup pipe) not opening fully. This might be due to the rod length being out of adjustment - or not engaged in the correct place on the bit behind the "valve" wheel. (the excentre) I have in the past managed put a Px type lantern back together with the little pip in the wrong place - so it failed to move the rod up and down correctly.
You can try emptying the fuel, take the outer and inner hood off, pump it up and open the "valve" and should feel quite a good stream of air out of the nipple. Best done where there is no ceiling in case of fuel lurking. The lantern look to be in good condition !

 

Hello and thanks.
The lantern was not so good before but elbow grease did the trick.
I replaced all seals and stuff (the big servce kit including the pump valve and leather, lead gaskets, nozzle and jet).The pushrod works fine and I can feel the needle point comming up with my fingertip on top of the nozzle. - NOTE: I could not feel this after i changed the spares, so I adjusted the push-rod and extended it a few threads. Could this be the issue? Perhaps I should have tested it before adjusting but I read that the needle should pop out of the nozzle about 0.5 millimeters when rotated.

I have now replace the mantle as I broke the other by accident and that did not improve wne I tried again.
Still the mantle gets black and flames around it so I guess it is burning wet.

I tried to keep my finger over the nozzle, pumped it up and no leakage around the nozzle threads, I removed my finger and a fine kerosene beam ejected from the nozzle so there where pressure.
I am stuck and out of options so appreciate any hlp from you guys.

Edit: It seems like the lantern is too rich on fuel and as I adjusted the neele to get higher up in the nozzle this might not seem to be the issue, lowering it would make the problem worse is my guess..