Has anyone encountered variations in the length of the needle/rod assembly? I bought a brand new generator, and the needle rod/pricker seems just a shade too short, the needle doesn't enter the jet quite far enough, with the adjuster knob in the closed position, fuel still seeps out of the jet with only a couple of pressure pumps. Note that the whole thing including jet is new. I have checked it with the old assembly and they seem the same length, but there is no pricker wire in the old one so I can't compare that part. In the UP position you can't feel or see the needle wire protruding through the jet at all. As far as I can see my only option is to lengthen the rod a mm or so. Any ideas? NB This is an older style Austramax with the round adjuster knob.
I’ve not encountered this. But note also that the needle/pricker assembly is not a shut off mechanism like the Tilley pricker is. One thing you could do, if your needle is not protruding from the jet (it only needs ~0.5mm), is to work out the correct adjustment and lock your bottom thread with Loctite. Tony
Probably not enough thread to do that loctite wheeze Tony, I may have to solder a mm or 2 into the rod. The lamp IS weeping out along the adjuster shaft behind the knob, I wonder if that has anything to do with it overfilling through the jet up top. Yes Tony, my pricker isn't protruding at all. I'll have to do those adjuster shaft seals anyway.
Something is wrong. 1. You must make sure your eccentric and control is set up properly. It should not leak “along the adjuster shaft” (if you’re referring to the eccentric). 2. Are you sure that you have the eccentric engaging properly with the eccentric block? Make sure you’ve got the lantern set up properly before you go to the extent of adding to the pricker shaft length. Tony
Yes Tony I get it. I'll need to fix the eccentric / control. I'll fix that first if I can, thanks for your advice.
Ahh that's interesting Dazza, maybe that's my problem. Now, how to identify the 2/300 -and mine, I have the earlier round knob one.
Well I'm scratching to find those stampings... not saying they ain't there, but my magnifying glasses are defeated! (Maybe it's on the underside of the fount?) And I have to work out how to remove that eccentric shaft. The eccentric is def' engaging ok because it's moving the needle up and down properly.
If it’s moving, don’t try taking it apart (yet). Can you post photos of your lamp: tank, collar, hood? Tony
See this thread that I've found: Austramax - trouble with removal of graphite washers and removal of eccentric It can't be as simple as just pulling it out surely?!!! (I bet it is!)
It is that simple… but: the early washers were such that, unlike graphite, they pack very hard against the shaft and the surrounding casing and are complete b@st@rds to free up! If your pricker is moving up and down properly, I would try soaking the whole piece with the eccentric in 3-in-1 oil or penetrating oil for a day or so, then testing to see if it still leaks. Or if there room for new packing, use some additional graphite. Tony
@Julian Whittaker , how’s it going? Follow Tony’s good advice, if the wheel is working as the Pricker goes up and down and dose not leak air if you dunk test for air leaks. Is the Pricker wire intact? If you search the lantern gallery Austramax you will find plenty of information, On the collar 2/300 on the font 3/300. The screw or cylindrical bolt that secure the frame. Cylindrical bolt belongs to the 2/300 The tapered bolt is for a 3/300. The earlier 2/300 have an extra bolt cap looking thing on the font top, for what purposes idk. I have made my own Pricker for both models. You can read my threads in the gallery All good.
Excellent info mate, thanks. There was no way that adjuster spindle would come out. But I was able to fit an o-ring in there behind the small sleeve, using the nut to then adjust the o-ring pressure around the spindle. Haven't tested that yet, but at least that leak should be cured -for now anyway. Next, having done this I'll go back to trying to look into the pricker... whether it's too short, or what. The pricker moves up and down as it should. Cheers Darryl.
Tested: My o-ring cured the leak at the adjuster. But lamp still smokes and flames up top. It's down to the pricker length. DIY is to lengthen the pricker 'rod' or shorten the generator tube. I've carefully (repeatedly) assembled the generator and pricker, but the pricker does not penetrate through the jet when in the high position. If it's not the pricker that stops the fuel coming out up at the jet, what does that?
I think I've got to the bottom of it. Luckily I have another good working Austramax, so I disassembled both to compare. See pic, on the right is the later working one. On the left is the one I'm trying to fix. Note the left one, (which I've been trying to fix) the 'carrier' part that moves the pricker rod up and down is SET lower than the one on the right. (I have both adjusters set at the upper position). SO... the pricker rod APPEARS to be shorter, but it's that the 'carrier' is SET lower. I can only assume that the variation is the size of the 'carrier' part. The difference is approx 1.5mm
Right gurus... How does the 'carrier' (that the pricker rod screws into and is moved up and down by the adjuster knob) fit into the square block housing that sits in/on the top of the fount? The square block is VERY tight, is it screwed in very tight, or is it soldered/brazed? How is the 'carrier' located in the block'? Is the 'carrier' height adjustable there? Or will I need to just lengthen the rod. Easy enough using DuBro brass tubing - I have a size that fits the rod nicely, and it will fit through the generator gauze, though if it will inhibit fuel flow appreciably I don't know.
Like many lamps and lanterns that run on kerosene, it does not have a “positive shut off”. If you look at the Reference Library parts for the Austramax you can see that there’s no foot valve; nor is there a shut off spindle; or a cock like a Tilley. Pressure is pumped into the tank when priming is completed, and turning the lantern off is achieved by releasing the pressure with the pressure release screw. So… it will leak out the jet if you don’t unscrew the pressure release screw. Just like a standard Primus stove. Tony
You are a subscriber. You have access to the Reference Library… [Source: https://classicpressurelamps.com/threads/austramax-pressure-lantern.13902/] Part 36, the eccentric, has a small brass pip that connects with part 32, the eccentric block by fitting into a slot (seen in black on the diagram). So, that’s how the Bakelite control wheel moves the pricker up and down. The fact is, unless you have a more modern eccentric block, taking it out won’t help you much. You could try putting some filler in the bottom of the hole that the pricker rod screws into, then holding the rod secure with some Loctite (see what I said above); or, lengthening the rod 1.5mm. Tony
The eccentric block just sits in the brass housing. But… it will be locked in place by the eccentric (as I have described above). It will not be removable without taking the eccentric out (but remember what I said earlier in this thread). If you do want to take the eccentric out, I can post a good method for doing so. The brass block is screwed into the tank and early Austramax may have had them soldered. Later they were screwed onto a rectangular lead washer. But… in this case there is no need to unscrew the block. Tony
Interesting... (Talking to myself here). From what I can see, the gauze inside the generator tube is essentially loose, I suppose it tends to sit down on the lower housing as the pricker moves up and down inside it. My plan is to cut the pricker rod, set both parts inside DuBro brass tubing, with a 1-1.5mm gap, and silver solder it all. Need to be careful that the extended rod can move through the gauze freely. Question is do I cut the rod towards the top, or at the lower end. I think the top would be best. The brass sleeve will be about 3mm to 3.2mm diameter so a bit thicker than the pricker rod which is 2.3mm dia. I wonder if this will inhibit the flow of vapour too much. Hmmm.
Can't edit, so I have to be talking to myself here. Have to do the join at the lower (thread) end because I can't risk the torch heat distorting that fine wire up top eh?
Here's my extended pricker. Silver soldered. Slides through the gauze nicely. But... The lamp still doesn't work properly! Damn!!
Tony. Not good news I'm afraid! The Austramax lamp still doesn't run properly. Much the same as before. I think, as I have another good running one, I might swap components over to see if I can track down the problem. Test by substitution eh. -I've noticed that the tiny thread on the pricker rod is a bit loose, if it's stripped it might not go up and down properly, needs checking. Rather not use loctite (yet) but that may be a solution. I've put it aside temporarily in favour of this handsome looking thing. I think it's a Radius (?) Can you confirm/deny? -Seems good and complete, but just smokes up top without lighting. I think it would just flame up there if I pressurised it more than a few strokes. Another one to troubleshoot!
Julian, did you check the nipple was screwed on fully and tight? I made the mistake once of assuming a new generator was assembled and ready to go Its an Australian Aladdin 1A
Cheers Martin(?). Pretty sure the nipple (jet?) is tight. I've had this thing up and down more times than a ?'s knickers. I'll re-check. Aladdin 1A Right, looks the same as your avatar pic thanks.
