Hello all, I'm new to this forum but have to say that it has been really interesting and useful already - great stuff. A friend kindly gave me a Vapalux 300X to restore. I done a slightly later 300X a few years ago, but this latest one has a couple of issues that I'd be grateful for some more experienced advice with, please. I've got most of the lamp apart but I can't get the non-return valve out of the tube. It unscrewed without too much bother, but is stubbornly resisting my efforts to draw it out of the pump tube. Is there a good technique for getting it out, or a tool to pull it out? I have bent a small hook from still wire, which I can get through the air hole, but it pulls out before the valve shifts. Also, the tank is really mucky inside. It has a layer of what looks like hard shiny black enamel, which presumably is hardened residue from the ancient fuel that was in it. The bottom of the fuel pipe was coated in the same stuff; on that I carefully scraped it off with a scalpel (it comes of easily) but obviously I can't get inside the tank with anything abrasive. Has anyone else encountered this and discovered an effective cleaning product? The air nuts tubes had seized onto the tubes, resulting in the tubes unscrewing from the vapouriser. I'll give them a soak in penetrating oil, then apply some heat, and was planning on holding the tube in a lathe chuck (to prevent damage) whilst turning the nut with a ring spanner - should work, fingers crossed. My only practical contribution to the forum at the moment is to share a method I've used to gently clean off corrosion and much from various items - works for brass, copper, and steel (excellent for rust removal). Use a citric acid solution and soak the items in it for as long as required to dissolve the rust/corrosion, which can be up to a week for heavy corrosion. I use basic household citric acid crystals that I get from a local hardware store, and mix with cold water in a large plastic bucket. The citric acid crystals are very cheap (a few £s) and it's not really aggressive and doesn't make heavily noxious fumes, although I do always use it outdoors. After a good soak the item should be thoroughly scrubbed (wear rubber gloves and use a plastic brush, e.g. toothbrush or dishwashing type) and rinsed in clean water, and you should find that it comes up like new. It can cause a bit of a colour change (brass comes out looking like bronze), but I find that it slowly reverts to how you'd expects it to naturally oxidise over time, or of course you can paint/polish. I've used this on all sorts of metal parts over several years, and it always does a good job at a bargain price without hours and hours of manual cleaning/scrubbing. https://www.dri-pak.co.uk/cleaning-products/citric-acid-250g/ Hopefully you can offer some advice on my 300X questions. Thanks very much indeed.
Welcome to CPL @Matto Yes, that is the fuel residue. That residue will also be on the NRV making it difficult to remove. I find Acetone is the easiest and quickest way to dissolve the buildup. But note the acetone will quickly remove paint if spilt on the outside of the lantern. The lantern should clean up nicely
Thank you Martin and Jeff for your replies, much appreciated. Martin, you were 100% correct. Last night I managed to get the NRV out. Having assumed the trouble was due to the solidified fuel residue, I'd given it a few squirts of carburettor cleaner over the course of the day, and eventually it could be rattled free. The bottom of the valve was encrusted in the black tarry stuff, which was clearly stopping the valve from getting through the hole in the bottom of the pump tube - exactly as you described. I'll get some acetone and have a go with that. Also, a friend has an ultrasonic bath so I'll give as many parts as I can get in it a good go in that. The cap/heat shield on top is fairly pitted but is still strong and usable. I'd like to use as many of the lamp's original parts as possible, so was thinking about getting it stove enamelled because it will look pretty ropey without some kind of refinishing (I don't think any other finish will withstand the heat for long). Has anyone else done this and had success? It'll take me a few weeks to get done, but I'll post a photo when complete. Thanks again and all the best.
Looking forward to seeing the finished lamp in due course. There is something strangely satisfying about bringing an old one back to life.
Belated happy New Year to all. Making good progress with the lamp refurb. Nearly all parts have been cleaned-up and the fuel tank came up fairly well following a 2 week soak in carburettor cleaner and a big handful of fish tank gravel (the really gritty stuff) which I shook about vigorously for quite a while. Bought a washer kit from Base Camp, so will soon start to reassemble. One thing I just noticed is that right on top of the domed part (see image) has got a small pinhole - literally big enough to poke a needlework pin though. I'm assuming it shouldn't be like this, but please can somebody confirm? If it should not have the hole I will attempt to braze it to fill the hole. Thanks very much.
Many thanks Tony. I guessed that was the case because it didn't look quite right and I can't imagine that you'd want paraffin vapour getting out of the top. I have now brazed it over, so fingers crossed it'll be ok when the lamp gets hot. Will progress with finishing it off now. Thanks again.
Finally got the 300X finished and running! Took a bit longer than planned but along the way I have been given a Tilley TL10, so I've been working on both on-and-off. I had planned to get the top cap stove enamelled but opted for matt black exhaust paint in the end (doesn't look quite so good, but saved a few quid - a future upgrade potentially though). The only real issue I had was getting the pump non-return valve to seal properly having fitted the new washer, but after a few failed attempts I realise the washer wasn't pushed properly into the brass cup, so once that was sorted it kept pressure fine. Lit it for the first time this morning; just needed a few rotations of the pricker to clear the jet, and hey-presto it ran really well. Thanks again for your help and advice getting this done.
