Here is a rather rough Primus 1020. It was bought in Australia and is most likely an Australian import from around that period. Note that it has an Aladdin bail (as it came with). The underside of the inner hood. Inner hood. It came with a "Phoenix" globe (chimney): Discussion about the nipple/jet is here: Help needed: Primus N0. 1020 Nipple (Jet ) The tank has lost a lot of nickel. Otherwise the lantern is OK. Up and running: Cheers Tony
Besides the nickel loss it looks very good compared to mine. Thanks for the detailed pictures as I have not taken mine apart that much . Mine is dated AN 10.
A very good acquisition, Tony! The vent looks remarkably good, so it is likely that the lantern has low "mileage". It appears that someone turned the J-tube a couple of turns too deep into the air tube, lifting the mixing chamber off its seat. Doesn't seem to have impacted the performance on yours, though. Wonderfully reliable lanterns that can easily compete with a 500cp Coleman 237 for brightness.
Phil As this is my first fettle of a 1020, I hadn't picked up on that nuance, and hadn't touched that part. Upon inspection, I find that: 1. As it appears in the above photographs, the air tube is screwed firmly into the J-tube. 2. One rotation "looser" made it very loose in the J-tube. 3. I noticed that the air tube appeared a bit bent, and straightened it. mixing chamber now sits lower on the air tube, leaving only a 1mm space between the "seat" of the vapouriser and the mixing chamber. 3. If I now unscrew the J-tube one rotation, besides the looseness, there is a gap between the seat of the vapouriser and the mixing chamber, and a 1mm gap between the seat of the J-tube and the top of the burner. I will leave it at 3. above and light it tonight and see how it goes. Now all I need is a new nipple (and pricker). Cheers Tony
Tony, I think the 1020 is fairly tolerant in the above regard. I have worked on quite a few where the j-tube is a bit wobbly. I suppose the worst that could happen if things are too far out of kilter is a bit of a smell when running. To stop outright rattling I've pinched the j-tube ends a fraction closer together sometimes or flared the threaded end a mite. I'm curious about the globe on your 1020. Is the same brand globe sometimes also found on the Aladdins there?
I was thinking the same. I am sure I have seen one before, but can't remember where. From memory I don't think it was an Aladdin. I have also flared the threaded end of the mixing tube. Works in most cases.
@phaedrus42 It is running very well with the 1mm gap between the seat on the vapouriser and the bottom of the mixing tube; but I might try one more fiddle to get it to sit flush. @Nils Stephenson & @phaedrus42 I had the same thought as you: where have I seen that globe before? I immediately thought Aladdin, so I’ll go and check my Aladdins when it gets light. Cheers Tony Edit: My NIB Aladdin branded globe is the same diameter as the Phoenix globe; but the Phoenix globe is 2mm shorter. Aladdin: Outside diameter 124mm; height 119mm. Phoenix: Outside diameter 124mm; height 117mm.
I've at least one globe with the Phoenix logo and text on one of my Buflam lanterns - an uncommon British Petromax clone. I've almost certainly posted images of it here so maybe that's it. 0351 Buflam lantern I'll have a look in the morning...
How is the fit in the globe cage base? The quoted size for the 1020 is 122mm x 122mm but there is usually plenty of room.
@Nils Stephenson It fits as if it were made for the lantern! It's not too wide, or too short for the rim of the top of the cage, but you can lift it up a bit from the bottom. Cheers Tony
