There is a weep of paraffin between the brass collar & tube of Porky's vaporiser. Before I do anything that can't be undone - is the brass collar removable? I don't want to end up with a Trigger's Broom of a lamp (lots of new bits but still the same old lamp...) if I can help it. Paul.
If I've interpreted your question correctly I reckon you'll need a new vaporiser. As far as I'm aware the brass 'collar' at the bottom of the vaporiser tube should be permanently fixed in place. If it's leaking fuel from that joint I doubt you'll be able to successfully repair it.
Some of those early vaporisers had a thread that screwed into the brass knurled bottom, a sealant on that thread may seal it. Its going to get fairly warm, "carefully" applied gasket cement might do. I think it might get too hot for teflon tape but it would do for a test .
The Tilley vapouriser tubes which have the brass bottom end are threaded and the brass part screws into them and I have known them to loosen a bit.
It's only the older vapourisers with the brass bottom ends which are threaded, the more modern vapourisers with the steel bottom ends are not threaded, the tubes are just pressed to the steel bottom end and sometimes they leak from there.
I've also seen a vaporiser with the end swaged over flat that can be used to test the pressurization of a Tilley device. I might make one of those.
Yes - I have both types. A steel/steel one leaks at the join, I was thinking to braze it up or else melt it for scrap. The latter is better based on experience so far.
Thanks Jeff - I know it would. Given what I think of the rest of the construction, in particular at the top end where it matters, I just might save the brazing rod and the gas required. Some electro smelter would be greener for the environment.
Yes, out-source production to China, specify low to pay peanuts, have them sent here and then charge top dollar for them. That seems to be Tilley's business model these days. What a way to honour the heritage of a household-name company that's 100 years old in 2019*. They ought to be shot with shit**... *Arguably, perhaps - it depends when you start counting - but I think Tilley produced their first pressure lamps in 1919... ** OK, OK - I'll get off the fence now...
Yes, Jeff - according to the Tilley website it was 1920. However, according to Wikipedia... Tilley lamp - Wikipedia ...we should have celebrated their 200th anniversary this year!
The normal mish mash of truth and myth that is Wiki. The only pressure lamps used in WW1 might have been Coleman after the American's joined the party but certainly not Tilley some years before they were invented. ::Neil::
Just saying, I have had something similar happen and it turned out that the fount was being slightly pressurised, by ambient heat, forcing kerosene up the generator weeping out of the jet and then running down the generator looking just like that in the picture. The fix ....... loosen the pump/filler cap to relieve any pressure. Of course in my case the lamp wasn’t lit, just sittin on the shelf minding its own business having a leak ........ Cheers Peter
Makes a lot of sense - no sign of brazing. I did gave a go at undoing the brass end with no joy, I may have to get some heat on it. Good job I have a collection of blowlamps as well Paul.
Et voila! The vaporiser is apart. This is one I practiced on but Porky's came apart just as easily - I just had to make sure I had a good grip on the brass as even with a leather strip the pliers threatened to strip the knurling. I have ordered some exhaust sealant paste to see if I can cure Porky's weep - this only happens under pressure when running so it's not a top-end thermal pressure weep, plus I always leave the pump unscrewed so this should never happen.
@Paraffinhead Congratulations on getting that apart! May I request a slightly different photo when you have time? Would very much appreciate a shot of the end of the vapouriser tube. I'm curious to see the wall thickness please. I would suggest some kind of engine sealant rather than exhaust (usually gritty by experience). Something like one of the grades of Hermetite - if it still exists.
I would have used Hylomar Blue gasket paste but it may not survive the temperatures involved. Presumably copper grease would also do as it is stable up to 1150 deg C or more.
It is probably not very hot at the bottom end. I was playing with a new Korean vap which had a nice shiny finish and after the first lighting it did this. Checking the colour charts for tempering steel the bottom straw band is under 200C and the upper blue one approaching 400C. All that happens in quite a short part of the length...
Here you are - without digging my calipers out I'd guesstimate the wall thickness to be1 - 1.25mm. You can see that even after 3 or 4 cycless of heat/quench there is still a good deal of carbon inside. Paul.
@Paraffinhead Many thanks for that. Not very thick is it? Can be seen by the ridge in the brass which is in best focus. Interesting. I will compare with the Korean one I am playing with - suspect that is thicker. That is why interested about temperature gradient which I hope was of some use. Engine seal good for ~200C will sort you out. Hermetite Red was up to 250C best I know. Now called Hylomar apparently and made in Wigan. Sorry don't know about blue as yet.
Use copper slip. It will stand all the heat it is ever lkely to get and give a good seal. I use it on anything to do with generators and it never fails. ::Neil::
Thanks Neil - I did think about copper grease. I'll try the Hylomar Blue when I get chance as i already have a tube on the go.
I've not used Hylomar for years since I gave up playing with motors. Worked pretty good on engine gaskets so it will stand the heat at the bottom of a generator for sure and if you have stuff that works you don't need to fix a problem you don't have. ::Neil::
