Hi to all I have been restoring lanterns for many years but not posted here before - so Merry Christmas from Aalborg, Denmark to all og you I have an issue that I have not encountered before: a Primus 1020 air tube that seems completely stuck actually perhaps even fixed with something so it initially seems impossible to remove. So before I start using too much force O would like to know if any og you have seen this before and What you have done? I have two 1020s and I have seen this issue before. Thank you in advance. BR Casper
Welcome to the forum Casper. Where do you think the air tube is stuck? At the jet side or the flame spreader side? If there is no obvious evidence of them being silver soldered in place, then they must be just 'stuck'. Heating and quenching could free it. Otherwise letting it soak with penetrating oil could help. What year is it from and pictures are always nice.
And I forgot to mention it seems to be stuck in both places - above the jet and also above the mantle
I have also had this problem. Tried heat, oil, etc. to no avail. Eventually removed the vaporiser and got it loose by wiggling by hand from side to side between the U tube and vaporiser. It took a long time and quite a bit of patience. There was no cement but some carbon and oxides that glued it together.
Yes that was also mu thought. I will try to disassemble and give all three says a go (Oil, wiggling and heat if needed) It was a very fine lantern but unfortunately it was handled so roughly by the carrier that the glass was broken and it got some dents. Also the preheater cup was broken. Really sad about it but what to do - the dents in the tank cannot be fixed and that fine old glass is not coming back...
Perhaps both. It was returned to seller who repacked and sent again. So I never saw the original packing. But now I need the preheater cup and the glass - plus any extra things I might find after taking the lantern apart
What is wrong with the preheat cup? They are very hard to come by, so it is worth trying to repair it. A Chinese Coleman 660 globe such as is used on the 220, 290, 295 etc. can be cut shorter to fit the 1020. You can polish off the logo before cutting it. See here: Cutting glass globes
Yes, I would certainly remove the vapouriser before doing more work to free the air tube. That way you don't risk bending the top of the tank where the lower fitting is. I have also had some success using a thin bladed screwdriver in the gaps to free an air tube. The best source of 122 x 122mm glass I know of is hytta.de. The preheat cup is difficult to break. How did they manage that? As Phil said, they are almost impossible to find, so the best option is to fix what you have.
You can see images here. The preheater cup is not damaged so it cannot be used. Seller said it had been bent in the first shipping that went bad so he bended it back. The airtube is completely stuck also after removal and a bit of light force. I will have to try heat and perhaps also oil
It looks like someone has tried to use an Optimus needle! Or atleast any Petromax version of that threesided type. It's not a Primus needle, that's for sure.
Yes and somehow it must be soldered on or something - but you are correct. Absolutely not a Primus needle. I wonder what jet will be on it when i get the air tube off...
Well the “needle” broke clear off when I tried gently to unscrew it. It seems that it is perhaps an inverted optimus needle soldered onto the top - but why i do not know. Also the rod itself has clear indications of being soldered/altered. Perhaps to change the length? Very strange - but now I also need the rod. Not going great so far.
I got the air tube off! So far so good. Now I find a jet that does not Seem to be correct Primus - not the correct shape, No numbers or marking on it of any kind. Does any of you guys know if this is an original part - just from another period than the one 6145 marked jet normally used for 1020?
I'd say most of the parts are repairable except the glass globe. The jet with the concentric stepped rings around the orifice looks like a Primus part. I've got a Primus that has been seriously modified/altered that really took me a while to get it working properly. I did not obtain any parts from Fogas Sweden or Hytta because I do not have any means to order them online. Assuming you can't find a spare pricker rod, the upper section could be fabricated and brazed to the lower and re-finished to the right dimensions. You can actually make your own pricker needle.(I've turned one from a 2.3mm diametre stainless steel welding rod to less than 0.2mm and threaded it with a UNF No.2 die). The jet would be tricky because its customized. Hope its not worn. I've pin-punched the orifice of my Primus jet to shrink it a little(thanks to @phaedrus42 's info).
I've seen the nozzle with the concentric rings in a 1001 Primus. In fact, I have one in my 1001. Perhaps just an "improvement" of some kind.
Congratulations on getting it apart. The needle has obviously been put in upside down but as you say, why? You could try comparing the length of the cleaning rod with your other one. That will at least let you know if it has been shortened. Otherwise just clean it up. I also make my own needles, but from brass tubing and acupuncture needles. The smooth jet is one of the original Primus types. They often turn up on the oldest lamps. What year is yours from? Just for info, the loose steel plate on the burner is upside down in your photos.
Does anyone know what the thread size is in the top of the cleaning rod? Then I could perhaps make new threads inside to fit an original needle. Of not possible do you have a good giude for making your own ones Nils? Cleaning rod: Yes I will compare then length of it with one of my other rods. Loose metal plate: Great to know that the loose metal plate was upside down because I actually got my doubts if i had turned them the wrong way on the other two I have and that this one was correct Regarding age: where and What to look for? I have never been doing big investigations into this. Also I have a question for you regarding the green top hat. Has anyone done anything with these? I often experience that rust from the inside fald down and cuts the mantle so I have to Exchange it - even if I recently removed all rust flakes. Has anyone had good experience with some kind of clear “sealer” om the inside so the patina and look is still there but No rust can fall Down? Or has anyone of you done a new enamel paint? I know the last one is a bit of a No-No, but sometimes the top hat is in so bad condition that one could be tempted to do it :-)
@Casper Falden There will be one or two letters and two numbers stamped in a small (8mm) circle in the centre of the base-plate. It is not known for certain what the numbers mean but the letters are a date code e.g. AC = 1938. You can find a table with the letters and which year they mean in the PRIMUS section of the Lamp Reference Gallery. Henry.
Well the thread for the cleaning needle is specially made by Primus and uses a 2.1mm diameter and 64 tpi Whitworth thread. A close alternative is a #2 UNF thread which has a diameter of 2.18mm and 64 tpi UNF thread. This means the thread angle is 60° rather than 55°, but is good enough to hold a cleaning needle. When I make needles I use 7mm lengths of 1mm brass tube and 2mm brass tube. The hole in the 1mm tube is about 0.4mm and the hole in the 2mm tube is 1mm, so it can slip over the 1mm tube. I I then put a 0.18mm acupuncture needle in the 1mm tube (which is already inside the 2mm tube). I then crimp 3.5mm of the brass tubing and cut off the needle at 2.5mm. I then cut a #2 UNF thread on the uncrimped end of the tubing. A lot of fiddling about but it gives me the satisfaction of having done it myself. The brass tubing was bought from an online model hobby shop. Just to say, new cleaning needles are available from Fogas and other shops. As for the enamel, once it starts flaking there is not much that can be done. The temperatures inside the hood are more than what most paints or sealers can resist.
