A question for the Coleman experts

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Fireexit1, Nov 26, 2020.

  1. Duck United States

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    I won’t guarantee this. But I’m pretty sure the burner tubes and caps unscrew. I thought the same thing on a 220j after awhile I said the heck with grabbed a pair of pump pliers and twisted. Low and behold It unscrewed. I’m betting you got a bad screen. Just my 2p.
    Edit: the new burner assembly on OCP have brass tubes which makes me even more sure they’re screwed in.
     
  2. MYN

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    From the parts diagram of most 228 variants, I found that the caps don't come as separate items. So I'm not sure if they're really removeable.
    If you have the hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution of sufficient strength, they'd work on the wasp/dauber nests. The oxidation works by breaking down the enzymes that hold the mud particles together.
    I usually use strong sodium hydroxide(lye) solution to take care of the organics/enzymes. They work differently from H2O2.
    The ideal, vertically straight liquid fuel stream stuff is only indicative of the resulting flow dynamics when its leaving the jet orifice as a liquid. When its hot enough, the stream would be gaseous and invisible. The flow dynamics are a little different in this form but still pretty much follow a similar 'profile' as in liquid form. It results in a stronger draw of air, and a cleaner burn.
    If the stream is already less ideal(skewed) when its still liquid, it won't get better when its gaseous. This in turn results in a poorer burn and lower flame temperatures which is only marginal for good vaporization. In the end, you'd likely get a lower fuel-air flow velocity, which is favourable for triggerring underburns.
     
  3. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Not much going on as waiting for a new graphite seal, although I did find some graphite tape in the "box of forgotten goodies" so I may try that. The burner posts are steel as proven out with a magnet. All appears to be non-demountable, or at best plated over any threaded joins. Maybe Coleman changed manufacturing methods at some time mid-288 production ? A new generator was also found in the box of forgotten goodies which has also proved to be a bit "spluttery". I am pretty convinced that the burner is clear (We don't get too many mud wasps on the south coast of the UK) as much soaking and shaking and pressure washing has taken place.
    I will update as soon as I can. What a saga... Thanks for all input - all of it is appreciated.
     
  4. MYN

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    :) Its sometimes all these saga that make the thread interesting. We're bound to have problems so long as we are still fettling or playing with these lamp stuffs.
    In my opinion, the spluttery fuel flow has something to do with the valve block or fuel pick up.
    If your lantern has a mechanism to control the lamp brightness, I would include that too.
     
  5. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

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    The spluttering you see on a cold 288 generator is not a bug but a feature.;) The plastic fuel-air pickup tube design works with pressure differential, i.e back-pressure in a hot generator and the lack of back-pressure in a cold generator, to determine whether air-fuel mixture or only fuel will be supplied from the fount.

    On the 288 lantern, the burner tubes and air tube are permanently swaged onto the base of the pan shaped mixing chamber and are not replaceable. Complete burner assemblies are/were sold by Coleman.
     
  6. MYN

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    That's what I was waiting to hear. Yes, to stand corrected:).
    I had a hunch of that on the 288 too. They're a little different from the usual straight fuel pickup types that should only pass fuel, hot or cold alike.
     
  7. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    That is helpful - thanks.
     
  8. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    And in conclusion a *success* story:

    So I broke the cardinal rule of troubleshooting and changed many things at once. Due to mantle costs mainly it must be said.

    1) Soaked burner in citric acid solution overnight. 2) New generator 3) New graphite seal (the old one was broken and more like powder, but not leaking fuel). I had replaced the schrader valve before. Considering I had already bought a new globe for it it "might" have been chaper to buy a new lamp overall - but nowhere near as much fun.

    Of note maybe was that the bottom of the paper in the generator was totally black. I did wonder if the over-compressed graphite and worked its way into the paper. the new generator certainly threw more fuel in the air...

    Two pictures, one at full flow, one on low showing flicker free even luminosity. Runing on Holts brake cleaner today.
    Thanks for all your steers and suggestions. Given global warming we might get mud wasps here one day - so I am prepared for anything now :-)


    288full.jpg 288 low.jpg
     
  9. MYN

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    That is an excellent result.
    Did you mention that the new generator threw out a lot more fuel than what you had previously? A little curious here. Was it still spluttering fuel mixed with air?
    The new one certainly would provide a stronger flow to fill up both burners.
    I believe the citric acid soak did remove considerable crap from the burner as well.
    Its not very likely that you could have squeeze any of the graphite into the paper inside. I believe it could be just old carbonized fuel.
     
  10. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @MYN the new burner did still splutter - but not as much.
     

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