Haha yes its only been a week and i've bought three, i enjoyed servicing the Tilleys, i just need to find my way around the spares scene and learn the different lamps foibles etc, i bought two at a decent price off a bloke who is just starting out in the antiques game and he said anything he finds he will give me a shout, pressure lamps do seem popular and the LED lamp i bought recently just isn't the same! I tried two decent taps and now the air bubbles are coming at about one a second but i would rather there are none to be honest.
No not yet, probably try it tomorrow without a mantle and if ok again when the mantles arrive in the week.
Well i had a fettle and fired up the x246b with no mantle on the two burners i have and there was a nice blue flame all round on both but the Colemans not so good, there seems to be a decent jet of fuel coming out of the vapourizer but when i tried to light it i just got lots of flames coming out at the base of the top u bend so i'm guessing it may be blocked? shall i soak it all in a 1/3 vinegar to water solution for a couple of hours like i've read on here? Thanks.
Scratch that, i didn't look properly so i didn't see the nut to take it apart, anyway its all clean inside so the only problems i can see it being are if the jet of fuel is not running straight through the centre of the pipe but hitting the side instead or the vaporizer is u s, will have to try again later.
Did you pre-heat long enough? In use, it is only vapourised paraffin gas (steam) that comes through the jet. It might also help to re-check the Coleman's air tube for spider webs or wasp nests etc. as this is a common cause of flaming. Clean mechanically with a bottle brush or the like. Blowing with compressed air will often not dislodge spider webs. Also check that the mesh in the burner cap has no obstruction. The other common cause of flaming is if the jet (gas tip) on the generator is not screwed on tight enough to seal. Be careful when tightening as the threaded part of the jet easily shears off! (Don't ask me how I know...)
>>...the jet //cut// not screwed on tight enough I confirm this. Less likely than a loose jet would be an out of spec jet. I have seen brand new jets out of spec (at least one). Jody
Phil Well i filled the spirit cup up and let it burn till it was nearly empty, i blew through the air tube and it didn't seem to be blocked or obstructed and the mesh is clear, i will have to find something i can use to try and clean it to be sure its clear, yes the generator was on fairly tightly and the pricker wasn't to dirty, the point is very small on these so i will have to be careful! Jody No i tried it with the glass off, test 2 i will try with the glass on, Thanks.
Question for the kerosene people: Does it matter what you put in the spirit cup? 70 & 90 percent alcohol are inexpensive here - for medical use I suppose. Would these be the thing to use? Jody
I would say if it did not burn with a black smoke it would be OK One thing to watch out for though, if what ever you use was too volatile and you needed a second heat, the vapour could boil too much and cause a flash. Big boom = not good
The household cleaning alcohol you buy here in Denmark is 93% and it works fine. Something I found out today though is that Trangia users recommend adding 10% water to avoid soot on the pots and pans. That must mean about 80% is ideal.
Use denatured alcohol. You can get it at WalMart or just about any hardware store. It's used in marine stoves and I have always used it to preheat all my kerosene lanterns that require the old torch or cup method.
Well i got hold of another pump tube to try on the X246A (tested under water so no leak in the tube) swapped over the new washer, leather, NRV and spring and the git has still got an air leak from just under the plunger handle so i'm a bit peeved now, i shouldn't think its normal but i'm not sure what else it could be?
I gave the lamp approximately forty pumps and left it for an hour or so and there was still plenty of pressure there when i undid the pump so maybe it can be used like this?
Its leaking from above the pump clamp, i think its either called the end cap or the plunger guide, there was no washer for it in either of the SP1 service kits i had and there were no washers fitted to any of the four of the pumps i have so i presume it should just be metal to metal? i was hoping it was just air trapped in the pump that was escaping but i held it under water for quite a while plus there is no leak on my X246B which is a similar design.
I wouldn't know where to start, i just had a look and i'm still none the wiser at getting a photo up, i'm not great with computers although i can use photobucket but i saw that's not allowed, its leaking from the centre of the first part of the pump that unscrews that the plunger shaft uses as a guide to keep it running straight, sorry if that's not much of a help.
MG From you descriptions, you appear to be missing a seal. I will find a diagram of the pump: you can identify where the problem is from the diagram. Stand by. Cheers Tony
Cheers Tony, There was no seal in either service pack for this joint, i replaced the seals on the main pump to tank clamp and all four pumps i have do not have a seal from where the leak is coming from and the pump from the B doesn't leak like this when fitted to the A (i have 2 A and 2 B pumps) if that makes sense, its leaking from the centre of the clamp that keeps the plunger from pulling out of the pump tube.
Im guessing you mean where the pump rod goes through the screw on cap? No there's no seal for that, air coming out of there mean your NRV is leaking, or very unlikely that you have a crack in the pump tube, not if you've tried a second pump though.
Yes that's the one, the second pump tube has new leather, clamp seal, NRV and spring and leaked in the same place but the pump from the 246B with all new service kit doesn't leak at all and its pretty much the same thing which tells me i shouldn't have a leak? I would like to use the lamp but don't fancy it leaking.
MG If it is leaking through the centre hole where the pump rod enters the pump, then you either have a faulty NRV (see again the advice above) or a crack in the pump tube (as Phil has said). Read the advice agin above and make sure that all parts of your NRV are clean and free from grit. Your pump should look something like this (with the addition of the correct washers and seals): If you are a subscriber to CPL there are catalogues in the Reference Gallery that show the detail of the components. Cheers Tony
Yes its very strange, its all new and clean, i removed the NRV etc put my thumb over the hole and pressure tested both pumps under water and saw no bubbles so i would presume there are no cracks, i cleaned all of the recovery area, fitted new viton NRV and slightly stretched the spring and gave it a good tap to seat the new NRV and both of that style of pump are leaking but the serviced 246B pump with the only difference i can see being a bit of a shorter threaded area doesn't leak, i don't get it.
Is the 201 running? I have been looking at a broken Tilley pump on my bench for a long time, the picture may come in handy. Jody
Not yet, i haven't had time to get up the garage and i've been told off for making my place stink of paraffin so not much can be done indoors I gave the 246A 40 pumps last night and there was still pressure there when released this morning so might try and see if it actually leaks fuel in use as i can't figure out why air bubbles escape from the pump, i'm hoping it may just be air trapped in the pump itself (not sure how long that would take to escape) as both pumps did it but why didn't the B's pump!
MG Check to see if fuel is accumulating in the bottom of the pump tube. Let us know what you find... Tony