While waiting for the penetrating oil to do some change for the screw situation. I was turning the knob to the left testing pressure. Then it get stuck now atthe maximum left. It turns right only half a revolution and stops. Not sure what has happened.
Time to take it apart and find out ? I would not force it as you might break the needle/bend the control rod.
Ah...didn't realize OCP is making reproductions for the 238B generators as well. In that case, hopefully they're not out of stock.
50 USD + Shipping will only be 1.5 million Lebanese pounds. I think not breaking it is the best approach !
Just a quick clarification – Today's exchange rate is giving us a whopping 4,500,000 LBP for 50 USD! It's like the LBP decided to do its own dance routine. Officially, it's being kept up at 1 USD = 1,507.5 LBP, but who can blame it for having a little fun on the side at 1 USD = 90,000 LBP in the market? In addition, customs costs are on a roller coaster of their own. They've reached heights even our wildest dreams couldn't imagine. And that's not even counting shipping surprises! Speaking of surprises, the wise words of @Fireexit1 will be considered. Safety first, after all (without my enthousiasm trials ). @MYN 's suggestion is like a glimmer of hope at the end of a tunnel despite the cost, I know I can still give the lantern a life at the end.
Well despite of what is wrote: if the vaporizer isn't leaking and works as it was intended: I would leave it in place. Simply because it is rare, replacement is expensive for the rest of the parts this is not that a big of a problem. Safety first should mean replace all seals but on the other hand: breaking a rare item/part in the process is not a good idea. Cleaning the rest of the lantern can be done with the vaporizer in place.
@WimVe indeed, the tank is holding pressure for long time this is a fact. The liquid is reaching the top when I was able to control the knob....knob is now locked almost, it is at the max left with a margin of 1/3 of a revolution turning only, then I feel resistance when I want to turn it more to the right to close the system. Something had happened.On another hand, that central screw is stifff and still stuck.. applying today also some penetrating oil to see what will happen at the end. Thank you really guys for bearing with me and for your support in saving this piece.
You know, because you don't care when you have such a thing taking your mind. Great the wife did not see I will be soaking those pieces in a citirc acid solution for half an hour. Then will brush them gently. Didn't know yet what was preventing the knob from turning back in place. Will check upon assembly.
The NRV at the bottom is not functioning. Pushed it with a thin rod it is hard and the spring as I imagine is making it always open. To be able to fix I will need to unscrew the rapid torch first and then the other one. To unscrew the rapid Torch do I need to fix the lower nut to be able to unscrew the higher one? I am currently applying penetrating oil to soften everything.
It is good practice to always secure the tank mounting. So secure the lower nut and unscrew the top part. This prevents the tank fixtures to break loose and give you more solder work.
Thanks @WimVe I wasn't plannig to deal with the rapid heater, as I find it complicated currently. I, however, need space to be able to deal with the other part to reach to the non return valve.
Is a spring required within the generator? Because I couldn't find a spring in the one I have. The question arose after checking online the link below (I was just checking and was not buying), in response to @MYN's advice. And the generator is showing with a spring. Old Coleman Parts > Generators > Generator 238B Lantern - R210
Hi @Migwar Have a look in the pictures that @Erwin posted of his restoration (1st page of this thread) Maybe it was my eyes but I couldn’t see a spring there?
There should be two brass springs inside the generator @Migwar A larger one that fits the inner diametre of the generator, and a smaller piece concentrically within the larger spring. The smaller one serves as a centering guide for the tip/jet cleaning rod. A little similar to the Coleman 237. The springs are arranged so that their pitch or helix coils are in opposite direction to each other. I could be wrong but it appears that the reproduction from OCP only has a single piece of spring. In the following Korean website, you can check out the pictures on the restoration of a Coleman 238B:- オールドコールマンレストレーションのご案内
Thanks @MYN for sharing the link with the illustration. The pictures there are really important, and the work shown is very neat. It's clear that there are two springs. But I didn't find any springs inside the generator when I did dissassemble my lantern. The lantern seemed like it hadn't been opened before, as the screws were tight and showed no signs of being opened with a screwdriver. That's quite unusual. You've mentioned the positioning of the springs insided the generator, guiding the cleaning rod to the center. Do they have any other purpose? And could it affect how the light works? I turned the knob multiple times fully before it got stuck, and the needle used for cleaning the jet wasn't damaged. I'm hoping there might be different models, but this situation is still strange. And when checking the pictures shared by @Erwin I notice no springs dissassembled!
But they are not actually springs. They are there to help distribute heat evenly. You can make some from copper (or better still brass) wire. Or try the lantern without them
The "old" generator I have has the two springs, I can't check the "new" one as I don't want to fiddle with an unfired, NOS lantern , but both are ex-Belgian Armee lanterns made in 1951. Yours seems to be a civilian model so there might be differences (but I'd be much surprised...)
Thanks @Fireexit1 will try it first without thewim, then later will make them if needed. Thanks @Wim will see how things develop then. Missed to thank you @podbros I've copied you though
Besides for the centering of the tip cleaner needle/rod, the 'springs' or rather, coils, occupy considerable space within the generator/vaporizer tube. This sort of limits the total volume of liquid fuel in that space at any one time during operation. In this way, the amount of fuel being vaporized is regulated and prevented from sudden or excessive surges. The opposite coil wound directions creates a tortuous path for fuel flow so there is a tendency to form eddies, that has the effect of mixing the heated fuel within. During operation, the effect is to even out or distribute the heated fuel throughout the generator's internal space. It also prevents cooler liquid fuel from exiting via the jet or tip orifice before passing through and getting in contact with the heated metal parts. In a way, it prevents pulsations during operation of the lantern.
With the above, pulsations during operation would be reduced or eliminated. Pulsations happen when there is an excessive amount of vaporized fuel at any moment. There is a limit to which the amount of vaporized fuel could exit the jet orifice. Any gaseous fuel that cannot exit through the orifice will surge back into the fount. After a while, the fuel in the fount will get heated up as well. This is undesirable. However, the 238B's generator is thick and has a relatively higher mass than most generators. This also helps to even out the heat better, so much so that the brass coils might not even be necessary.
Wow @MYN great the information you gave is documented here. A splendid explanation that is well noted.
To get a better understanding of what could initiate pulsing in the first place, you might want to read through the explanations that can be found on the web and elsewhere about a phenomenon called the 'Leidenfrost Effect'. With prior understanding of it, you'll be able to more or less figure out why and how such a phenomenon could manifest or be present in a real operating situation within the heated generator. With some basic knowledge on the constructional materials of the generator and the fuel's physical properties, you'll be able to reason out why the designers came up with such solutions to the problem.
Thanks again @MYN the information is of high benefit to me. On another side, I've managed to disassemble the rapid burner upper part. The rod inside is jot getting out due to gunk. Can I pull it?or this will cause losing a part of it inside the tank? In fact it went out as per the second picture below.
The rapid preheater can be disassembled and cleaned out. Carefully remove the gunk and any blockage with suitable solvents, i.e., carb cleaners, acetone, etc. Be careful on the plastic knob. Some solvents might harm it if in contact for too long. The rapid preheater assembly should be almost similar, to the one in the following patent except for some minor variations: It was used on a Coleman lantern, probably the 238A.
Thank you @MYN for the care and follow up. Will pay attention to the knob while applying the above. After several tries I was able to gently disassemble the main part today. Picture below. It is gunky. Now I can start cleaning everything. The part highlighted shown as made of a kind of Solid plastic. It turned out to be an accumlation of gunk!
Trying my best. Lots of penetrating oil after soaking with citric acid solution for 5 minutes and gently scraping.This is the condition now. I will keep giving it penetrating oil till tomorrow since I've noticed how fragile and high potentially bending is the tube.
