@Tony Press That’s awesome mate it looks good ...... I’ll send some shirts down to you. Mind, sharp creases and starched collars please. Cheers Pete
Not a lamp, but another part of the Australian Gloria story. I should be able to get one fully working stove out of these two: Cheers Tony
Gloria in Australia were very keen on the tapered steel pricker that was use for both pricking the jet and as a fuel flow regulator: Cheers Tony
@Tony Press Looking at your picture, it looks like the controlling taper, or fuel flow control taper is just before the thread. One of the benefits of this is that every time the valve is turned off, the jet gets a good prick out. (Is that a good phrase?) Am I batting on the same wicket here? Cheers Pete
Peter The taper at the control wheel end is a “shut off”, but will also regulate flow at the opening and closing phases of operation. The patent here describes the operation of the needle as both a pricker, and as varying the size of the jet. Cheers Tony @AussiePete
Thanks Tony it would seem that both would operate together. It’s a good concept. Cheers Pete @Tony Press
I’ve read through the patent application again, and there’s one thing that’s interesting... but it’s complicated and I’m tired... Tomorrow... Cheers Tony
Hi Tony, very interesting and informative, good stuff! I realise that you are using some sort of electrolytic process here, but i would only be guessing as to exactly what was going on? Is it possible to elaborate further for eejits like me? Many thanks
@podbros It is indeed removal of rust by electrolysis. The rusted object is attached to the negative pole (diode) of a Direct Current; the receiving steel plate (or plates) to the positive (anode) The +ve steel plate and -ve rusted object are immersed in a solution of sodium bicarbonate in water. Don’t put stainless steel or non-ferrous metal in this system There’s a lot of discussion of this form of electrolysis over at CCS, and some good “Instructable”-type videos on line: Materials and Instructions for Electrolysis - Robot Room I used it in this case because there was some hard to get to rust on the folded and pressed stove case. It will remove much of the paint in the process, which in this case was very desirable. Cheers Tony
I’ve yet to try derusting by electrolysis, but I’m wanting to. I have heard both good reports and not so good reports. It’s about time to try it and see for myself. Thanks Tony for explaining the process. Cheers Pete
Pete The good is that it will (if used properly) remove all the rust and flaky paint/enamel etc. This is, of course, also the bad if you’re dealing with delicate parts. Use only on robust steel. Tony @AussiePete
Carefully getting there... After pulling it apart and fettling bits and pieces, I’m almost ready to test-light it. At the moment it holds pressure and hisses at the right places (and doesn’t hiss at the wrong ones). Cheers Tony
I’m still working on the stove, but I need to manufacture a couple of things, so it will be a week or two before it’s in the Gallery. In the meantime... Tony
For those who like a good wall lamp, this should be a treat. It’s not Gloria, but it came in the same pile... Cheers Tony
It’s a Crystal-lite No. 9 wall lamp, made A. J. Alsdorf Corp. Chicago USA. More photos from an earlier thread here. Sold in Australia in the mid to late 1920s. It’s not very common. It has the fittings for both the mica chimney (globe) and a glass shade. I’m looking forward to getting it running. Cheers Tony @BigStevie
@Tony Press Wow, just WOW!!! You’re definitely a master of restoration and an inspiration to us all. Well done. Cheers Pete