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Thanks Colin, I might just do that. I bought a seal kit from base camp, and there’s a new graphite in it, so I was just trying to “ do it right “ but if it doesn’t come out in the morning, I’ll leave it. I’m just glad I’ve managed to free it up.

 

I'm with Colin. If it doesn't want to come out, and it's working, leave it and save the graphite for another job.

Cheers

Tony

 

@AussiePete @ColinG et al, on the four I've dealt with, IT IS NOT GRAPHITE !

If it's anything like what I've dealt with on my own Veritas's, it's probably as hard as a rock and won't make a good seal. Of course there's always the chance that this won't be the case but you won't find out until you've reassembled the lamp and have the thing leaking kero all over the place when you come to light it. Then you'll have to disassemble AGAIN to fix it.
@malcolm race the choice is yours but you've got this far; why turn back now?

I found the best way to deal with it was hold the end of the spindle in a vice and pull on the housing. It's doubtful the parts will separate immediately so pull and push repeatedly. Warming the area with a blow torch whilst pulling, may help - it did for me. Worst case scenario is to heat it until the rubber seal burns away.

Henry.

 

Having seen what @Henry Plews has said about this packing, I retract my above statement and go with Henry.

And I’ll remember that when I fettle my first Veritas (... long way down the list).

Cheers

Tony

 

Ok guys, I’ll have another go & see what happens.

thanks

 

There's no need to go at it like a bull at a gate, just be firm and make sure you keep things in a straight line.

 

Ok Henry, will do. One thing that bothers me, is whether the piece that bobs up & down when I turn the shaft, (I assume the pricker rod screws into it ) is attached in someway to it/ holding it in

 

@malcolm race

The following image should explain things. You'll see that the spindle with offset pin at the business end (referred to as the 'excenter' by some manufacturers) is quite free from the 'cam block'.

 

Ok, thanks Henry, now I understand, so let battle commence

 

I've always wondered if 'excenter' was some sort of foreign for 'eccentric' (the noun, not the adjective) - I don't know, though...

 

If you look here, you'll see that the Exzenter (German spelling) is part number 105.
6 models brochure

Henry.

 

Well, you would have thought that it was German, but my German dictionary has no English word for Excenter. On the other hand, eccentric is 'exzentrisch' or 'uberspannt', also exzentrische(r) when applied to Mensch i.e. human beings.

Perhaps I need a bigger German dictionary - my eyes certainly would benefit!

 

The fettle is moving along nicely, if a but slowly. I’ve started the rebuild and thought I’d have a test fire. Now maybe as this doesn’t have burner with holes, like a Tilley, just a gauze it won’t produce a bunsen like flame. As I said earlier in this post, the lamp doesn’t have a pricker rod or a pricker, so is it getting too much fuel. Or have I just got it hot enough? Your suggestions & comments would be appreciated.

 

Gauze versus holes shouldn't matter, it's the correct mixture of vapourised fuel and air which dictates whether the lamp burns with a clean flame or not. Hopefully the flames are the result of the vapouriser not being hot enough - this can be remedied. Excess fuel indicates a worn jet which could be more difficult to fix.

At this time of year in the U.K., you shouldn't have to preheat twice. Because your lantern is without hood and glass, perhaps too much heat is dissipating with the obvious result. Have you tried playing a blow torch flame on the vapouriser to keep it hot ? Have you double checked that the jet is tight ?

Henry.

 

Thanks Henry, ill try what you surgest in the morning, you don't think the missing rod & pricker will have a part in the problem then. I have a spare jet from a superb, if you know if its the same?
cheers
Malcolm

 

It isn't the job of the pricker to regulate the flow/amount of fuel - merely to clear the jet on the odd occasion it gets blocked with a piece of crap.

If you think about it, when running normally, the pricker wire is withdrawn from the jet which is therefore completely unobstructed. That's exactly what you have with no pricker mechanism fitted; a clear jet. So the lantern ought to run the same either with or without the pricker wire - until you get a jet blockage at least.

You use the control cock to control the flow of fuel - hence the name. You use the pricker control to control the pricker wire. These are two completely separate functions.

Mind you, if the control cock on a 350 has the same effect as it does on a Superb, you have, effectively, on or off - there's no fine control of the fuel flow and hence brightness.

Hope that helps...

 

There is a slight difference in the jets I looked at, however, the threads are the same and because both the 350 and Superb are 350 cp I assume the orifice is the same too. I didn't run the lanterns but I can't see any reason why a Superb jet won't work in a 350.

Henry.

 

Thanks Henry, i've looked at it today. the blow lamp system made no difference, so i stripped it down again. The jet in the 350 is way larger than the one in my spare Superb jet. Unfortunately the Superb jet is blocked solid at present. So working at that over the weekend, and ill keep you posted. I think i know a man with a big compressor.
Cheers
Malcolm

 

Well it’s finally done, not saying it’s been a labour of love, but I have enjoyed this fettle, only my second Veritas lamp. Thanks very much to those that have advised me along the way, particularly Henry who has been very patient and led me through some areas new to me with excellent pictures and words of encouragement.
I stripped the whole lamp down. Because of the naff black paint on the frame and hood, I decided to take it for blasting and replating. I’m very pleased with the finish, and the blasting has found the date plain as day, feb 52. I gave the fount 2 coats of primer, 4 of cream gloss & 2 of clear lacquer. Evidence seemed to point to cream being its original colour. Sorry Henry but I gave up on trying to remove the pricker arm, that thing just didn’t want to move. So I put on an O ring and fortunately there are no leaks. Finally I had an issue with the jet being oversized. But a spare one from a Superb seem to have cured that. So the photos and money shot

 

That’s looking the business Malcolm, you must be chuffed with the result.

 

That's progress!

 

Spot on, lovely job. Good effort, you must be happy with that.

 

Splendid work.

 

It has cleaned up very nicely. Congratulations

 

Thanks guys yes I am pleased with it. It still needs some work, in the pricker department as does my Superb, but I’m sure they’ll turn up eventually. Cheers
Malcolm

 

Happy to have been of help, it's looking good.

Henry.