Servicing a Bialaddin/Vapalux vapouriser

G'day ateallthepies, Have you read this post by loco7lamp on rebuilding vapourises. it may help and point out some of the difficulties to overcome.

Just read to the last entry of the conversion thread and answered the question. yes.

 

Yep I remember that thread but good to see it again so thanks for the link!

I spent the day in the garage making a replaceable vap tube tip out of an M10 set screw. Was going really well until I snapped the last of my 0.2mm drill bits by being impatient.

I have the vap tube internally threaded in M10 and a 20mm long M10 steel set screw turned down and bored out leaving 2 mm of steel for the jet hole. I'm using the original centring spring to align the prick rod, just snipped down to fit the 6mm hollow in the set screw.

I even had the stove sealing silicone compound that's rated to 1500 degrees C to seal the set screw to vap tube body.

Now I have to wait for China post to get some more drill bits before I can see if this incarnation works!!!

What I'm aiming for is an all Steel replaceable screw in jet that uses the original cleaning rod set up. It should work well depending on the thread sealant!




Oh well will update when me bits arrive!

 

this is an interesting thing,if this works a cnc could churn them out,you would make a fortune at a tenner each.

 

Thanks, there is no way I could make these for profit, that's about a days worth of machining for me in those pics there were a few trial pieces that got launched into the scrap bin as well!
I'm thinking cutting the vap tube and doing the threading can be done with anyone with a hacksaw, file and tap set?

If anyone does use this method I would recommend drilling the jet out straight after the bolt head has been faced off on the lathe. If a bit snaps in the hole it isn't worth fiddling around with unless there is a bit of drill bit poking out that can be grabbed and pulled out, just start a new piece.
I'm still playing with drilling methods but what I do know is that you need lots of flushing of the hole, I use wd40 after every beginning of dwarf forming. I'm also leaning toward a much slower setting on the rotary tool and using a magnifier, when my bits arrive I will perfect the drilling technique and let all know but steel doesn't seem as difficult as brass was to drill?
The original material thickness of the vap tube hole piece are not very thick, what is it about 0.5mm? I suppose this is to ensure the life of the jet hole remains a set period before it opens out too much? I'm wondering if a hole in a piece 1mm or even to 2mm thick will ensure a long jet life? Adjusting the pricker tip should remain easy for whatever depth of hole? I think maybe 1mm would be a good size to try first?