I agree that the alcohol preheat is preferable. I have both a Petromax and a Sea Anchor, with a rapid preheat feature. In both the lanterns this works, but rough! I even think that the mantle takes some strain! I tried 6 Bar air pressure thru the jet, after soaking it in lacquer thinners for a day. The kerosene jet stream profile improved significantly! I fine tuned the angle of the preston loop, such that the kerosene jet stream hits the loop spot-on. I found it less "violent" on the mantle, and heats the preston loop quicker. But still, I rather do the alcohol, (methanol), preheat.
It might not just be the air holes. You might also want check whether the air path/space between the conical hollow, #16 and the cone, #9 has been narrowed or closed-in too much. Sometimes, the upper valve block part, #15 can be torqued down so much that it over-deforms the sealing, #14. This can position #16 and #9 so close together as to be in contact and almost shutting off the air path:
I’ve got it running ok (not perfect) now, so I’ll leave it until I do a couple more rapids. Cheers Tony
How long do you have to run that rapid flame, to have the kerosene fully vapourizer? (Looks like the flame does not reach the loop)?
Testing the vapouriser on a 1959 Tilley X246. I’m using my test burner, hood and mantle as this lantern came with a NOS hood, burner and mantle that I’ll use for display rather than on this lamp. I’ll put together a replacement burner and hood for this lantern, and as it came in a well made wooden box, it will be a user. The vapouriser passed the test! Cheers Tony
I made up a replacement hood and burner for the 1959 Tilley X246 (immediately above) and tested it on “David” the test Tilley: It’s working very well so I will now give the lantern a basic service, do some repairs on its workshop-made transport box, and put it into the camping stash. Cheers Tony
Testing an unused Optimus 1551 (the Chinese steel 500cp lantern). I don’t usually light unused lanterns, but this model is nothing special and I want another 500cp camping light. Looking a bit rich here… But it straightened itself out with a test mantle. I’ll test it again tomorrow with the glass and hood fitted — these Chinimus 500cp lanterns have a reputation for running too hot. As a result the 500cp nipples are often replaced with a 350cp nipple and pricker. Cheers Tony
@Jacob van Pareen I don’t usually run lamps under their recommended pressure, but I’ll test next time I use this lamp. Cheers Tony
Giving a newly acquired Coleman 200A (1980) a test before cleaning it up and putting a mantle on it. Cheers Tony
I bought a rough looking Tilley X246 (1949-1953) for a very good price because it had a “deep” 171 globe and the first version of the black hood that looked in good shape. The price justified the glass alone, but I hoped the burner and the vapouriser might also be ok. Dirty and dusty as it was, with a rusty cage, it was actually in quite good condition. Here I go testing the burner and the vapouriser: 1. Checking the uncleaned burner with a known 169 vapouriser. The burner needs its flame holes cleaned and a general clean, but it’s in good order. 2. Testing the 606 vapouriser that came with the lantern, using a known burner and mantle. The vapouriser is fine! Cheers Tony
Testing the (almost) twin of the above lantern, another Canadian Coleman 249. This time it’s 3/63 while the one above is 2/63. The twins I’m happy with these two. Cheers Tony
Testing the burner on a reconstructed* Coleman 427: *This lantern is configured from an incomplete 427 and a 427 that had damaged check valve seat in the pump tube making the tank inoperable. You can see in the photos that I’ve started it with a filler cap fitted with a schrader valve: this was to get the mantles set at 2 atmospheres. I’ll keep this lantern as a user. It’s working very well. Tony
This Coleman 288 came with the fuel still on the tank, and the mantles intact (almost), so I just fired it up to see if it had any problems. You may notice the red brass at the top of the left hand side mantle. That mantle is loose and hot vapour is escaping up from the burner. I’ll put a new mantle on. Cheers Tony
Looks good @Tony Press but why the preheating torch? Anything wrong with the instant light system? Or is just a habit. I have one 285 that I run on jet-a fuel (no need to change anything) and I do use my Tilley preheating torches too
@Pancholoco1911 On first light-up of a new gasoline lamp I usually use a torch just in case there’s some problem. Once I’ve set them running properly I use the instant light method. Cheers Tony
Changed the dreaded Coleman clip on mantles on the 288 for Peerless mantles: You’ll notice that, even though the two mantles came out of the same packet, the left hand side one is bigger. It’s not the burner — the mantles were different sizes before burning. It’s ok. The lantern is working well. Tony
@Dean D Relatively new Peerless 2C-HG. I’ve noticed this before, so now I’ll go through the batch and size-match them. Cheers Tony
