Jon, the maroon pricker knobs have a brass insert with RHT (right hand thread). Find a way of blocking the spindle by means of pliers and something inbetween to prevent damage. I use a piece of leather cut out of an old shoe. It is important to spend some time and effort in finding the right tools to do this job without damage, that might stare at you for years otherwise. The above suggests you remove the knob by turning it anti-clockwise. Even with a new or very clean vapouriser you can blow your cheeks into balloons without noticing any air escaping this tiny orifice, depending on how sensitive your fingers are. Mind, if really clean you could see some light coming through it, depending of course how sensitive your eyes are...... Do not be tempted to poke something through the orifice. The heat and quench method should show early on how dirty this vapouriser is. I soak in thinner, or Natriumhydroxide (lye or caustic soda) and use compressed air to dislodge. Good luck! Mike
Thanks Mike, I haven’t tried blowing through the vapouriser, it’s the pick up tube that goes into the tank that appears to be blocked, should that be clear ? thanks Jon
Definitely, Jon. It is the essence of the lamp to get the fuel up to the vapouriser. It rarely happens - usually as a result of using the wrong lamp oils that thicken into sticky goo if left for a long time. But in your case, with a lamp this long dormant, it could be anything. There is little that can get damaged if you poke a bicycle spoke into the tube, but if you have a compressor, blow air into it from the upside down - a reverse of the normal direction of flow. The pricker actuating mechanism is usually soldered and fixed into the main body, but perhaps not on yours - if so, removal by unscrewing it might help. It should be not too hard to free that tube, but when repairing / restoring old stuff, patience is the most important tool. It might take a soak to help it become free and clean again. Mike
Thanks again Mike, I would prefer to keep as many of the original parts as is possible so if I can clear the tube it would be a bonus. Would caustic soda be ok to use to try and clear it or would just fresh paraffin suffice. many thanks Jon
I always opt for the most simple and easy method, so paraffin before anything more drastic. But perhaps I do not understand the problem here. If you remove the pricker actuating assembly from the tank, there is a short tube - the fuel pickup - attached. If you have removed the vapouriser with needle, you should be able to pour paraffin through the assembly. If this cannot be done, check and find out which substance or object is blocking the passage of fuel. A bicycle spoke is often handy as you can scrape with the fine threads, often then bringing whatever substance to light. If gooey, use a more agressive solvent than paraffin, like thinner or acetone. See if they 'colour' when they dissolve that goo. But like I said, a physical approach is ok too as there is little that you can damage when you try to open the passage with a suitable tool, like a drill bit. Anything goes, just step up the dissolving powers with solvents if need be. Caustic soda is nasty stuff for your clothing, linoleum and your own skin - although plenty of warning there! The idea is to catch a fly with a swatter, not a baseball bat if you don't have to. But in general, caustic soda can be used with brass without risk, although after a long immersion it does turn brass pinkish. But it will eat away aluminum, so do not use it with the later alloy framed and waisted lamps from model 305 series II and up.
Wow! The lamp is looking great so far and the original paint is a real bonus. Do you have the handle/bail or was it missing?
Thanks Colin, I do have the handle, I’d just removed it to clean it up and also the brass nuts, Don’t know if that’s the correct term for them; that the handle attaches to. Thanks Jon
Jon, the glass or globe on your lamp I find extremely rare, as I have never seen a glass with a hole AND two , not one, green logo's. Could you make some (detailed) photo's of it? Mike
Thank you Jon! I find it remarkable this glass has two identical logo's, perhaps a production error. But I have not seen them on glass with a hole anyway. It only adds to the uniqueness of this lamp. Perhaps it is time to make an inventory of all the variations of W&B logo's still out there. In the gallery there is a later glass -without a hole - that has 'Vapalux' in a bow on top of this logo: Matthew's blinged 300X. This imo is also a rare-as-hen's-teeth glass: I love it. Due to their fragile nature original glass is much more rare then the lamps. Their often short production -based on the logo's - is another major factor.
